Author |
[Modern View] |
WidefrontDan
03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
How would some one go,about fixing this leak. The belly pump in N/A i just runs off live hydraulics but this leak is giving me trouble can't change the fluids till I fix it.
|
|
|
rustyfarmall
03-13-2016 08:15:55
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see
I used a similar piece of bar stock, but welded it to a 3/4" nut. I use my air impact. It'll spin that coupling off right quick like.
|
|
|
David G
03-13-2016 08:20:09
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to rustyfarmall, 03-13-2016 08:15:55
|
|
That is a really good idea.
|
|
|
David G
03-13-2016 07:28:32
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
I would change both seals while you are in there, make sure there are not grooves on the couplers, if so put on speedy sleeve. I power washed that area out good before I changed the seals on mine.
|
|
|
sflem849
03-12-2016 11:37:16
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see
Sounds like you have something else to fix!
I used a breaker bar. My small HF one is the perfect size.
|
|
|
Dave S.
03-12-2016 11:05:41
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
Put it in gear and set the brakes
|
|
|
caterpillar guy
03-12-2016 10:42:14
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
After looking at the picture again, I think the top shaft is the leak. It will come off with a bolt in the center then slip off the shaft. The retainer bolts will get your seal off again.
|
|
|
caterpillar guy
03-12-2016 10:40:14
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
I believe that will unscrew from the shaft then remove the retaining bolts and casting the seal is right there in your hand.
|
|
|
WidefrontDan
03-12-2016 10:46:25
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to caterpillar guy, 03-12-2016 10:40:14
|
|
How would you in screw it I when I tried I would just turn the motor?
|
|
|
WidefrontDan
03-12-2016 10:24:18
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:11:15
|
|
Sorry this having hard time with pics
|
|
|
WidefrontDan
03-12-2016 10:27:28
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:24:18
|
|
 Got it
|
|
|
charlieu
03-12-2016 11:12:33
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 10:27:28
|
|
  I made a special tool for removing the nut from the bottom shaft. With the tranmission in 5th gear and the brakes set I insert the tool and turn CCW with blows from a hammer.
|
|
|
WidefrontDan
03-12-2016 11:20:36
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to charlieu, 03-12-2016 11:12:33
|
|
Thanks very helpful just my brakes on this tractor won't set the piece is broke off so no e brake
|
|
|
Janicholson
03-12-2016 16:44:05
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to WidefrontDan, 03-12-2016 11:20:36
|
|
Block the wheels with timber, or put a wedge between the pedal and platform. Put it in High gear (5th) and it will not go anywhere. I also think the top input shaft seal is leaking as much or more than the trans countershaft. Jim
|
|
|
Janicholson
03-12-2016 16:44:57
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to Janicholson, 03-12-2016 16:44:05
|
|
It does turn CCW to remove (normal threads) Jim
|
|
|
Janicholson
03-12-2016 16:50:50
|
Re: M Diff leak in reply to Janicholson, 03-12-2016 16:44:57
|
|
To get the clutch shaft out requires several steps. First is to take pictures. (the coupler can be assembed backwards and cause real issues) the clutch plate can be partially removed to allow the scrouge to get the shaft out. Holding your mouth just right is also important. The top drive coupler comes out with the removal of the center bolt. Jim
|
|
|