jdemaris: jd3325 winch (again)

tjdub

Member
I changed the fluid again. This time I pulled the lower pan off and took out the screen and cleaned it (horrible mess of sludge down there). I popped on a new filter and put in fresh fluid. I got a 5000psi pressure gauge and put it on in place of the pipe plug on the top of the winch housing and it registered NOTHING even in wind mode as the winch spun. I guess that means less than 100psi. At first I didn't trust the gauge and loosed it up until a little bit of fluid leaked and put into wind mode and there was almost no change in leaking rate, the pressure really is that bad.

I guess this means the little webster pump is shot, right? Could it still be the valve or an internal leak at this point? A new pump is $575 from deere and I would consider it worth it to get my winch running, but is there a way to test the pump to be sure that it's definitely the problem?
 
I really doubt the pump is the problem. But if you suspect it, pull it apart and look inside. It is just a small simple gear-pump. If it doesn't push any oil, I'd suspect it's not turning inside.

By the way, the same little Webster gear pump used to be very common in 1970s-1980s snow-plow setups for pickup trucks. $575 for that little pump is absolutely rediculous.

Again, it is just a simple, postive-displacement gear pump. It's almost impossible for it not to pump any pressure oil if everything is turning inside of it.
I've had to change a few over the years, but only because as they got good and hot, the wouldn't pump sufficient oil. An indication of a worn pump is often when you have to run the engine at full throttle to make the winch work once hot.

If you pull your pump apart, and it's bad enough to cause your problem, you will easily see it.
 

Just an update.

I pulled the control valve off hoping to find something horribly wrong with it that would explain the extremely low hydraulic pressure, but to my untrained eyes, everything seemed clean and tight in there. I guess I'm focusing back on the pump now (or maybe just the pump's built-in relief valve?) I'm actually hoping it's not the high-pressure line from the pump to the control valve that's cracked because that line looks like it would be a real bear to change out.
 

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