Scarifier or root rake?

Anonymous-0 · Jun 6, 2010

I need to make an attachment or maybe 2 but would like to try and make only 1 that could serve multiple purposes. I could make a root rake with closer spaced tines but don't know if it would work very good for scarifying hard packed clay. The other option is to make a rear scarifier and use it for pulling up roots after I clear tree's. A root rake would be made to fit on the front 4 in 1 bucket and the scarifier would mount to the quick attach backhoe mounts. The machine is a Cat 931B loader with 1 yd. bucket and weighs about 17,500 lbs. I need something simple to groom a MX track when it gets packed really hard. I only need to go 6 to 8 inches deep and the box scraper won't do it and the tractor isn't heavy enough. I figure on the Cat, I'm not as likely to break something. Any help is appreciated. Dave

Billy NY · Jun 7, 2010

I've always thought these are 2 different tools built for 2 different purposes, but traditional thinking aside, you may be able to combine the 2, both being ground engaging tools, they have to be stout, that is for sure.

Thing with a root rake is that its wide with many tines that are spaced close together, a ripper, single or multi-shank, would seem to engage the ground further and fracture better as the spacing is wider between them. The depth you mention, + the soil conditions of a track, might be favorable for a combined tool, just might not be suitable for heavy work like land clearing etc. certainly an interesting question, as I've used both tools, on D8K's and other similar tractors.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 8, 2010

I was thinking of a scarifier like on a grader with tines about 6 inches apart so I don't just leave a bunch of grooves. I'd make the tines out of 3/4" or maybe 1" material and hardface them. I was also wondering if a front mounted scarifier/root rake would put more stress on the machine than a rear mounted scarifier? I know it's not good to use the bucket teeth tilted down as a scarifier going forward. I have done it for light brushing only. Dave

captain_crunch · Jun 8, 2010

Biggest draw back of rake on rear of machine is how to pile debris. Next comes when it gets full and starts to ride up tracks

Anonymous-0 · Jun 9, 2010

That's what happens with the teeth on the box scraper with roots. I think as just a scarifier, a rear unit would work better? Dave

Billy NY · Jun 9, 2010

I think in the soil conditions for the track, what you are thinking would work nicely, it's the harsh work of rocky, heavily rooted and similar land clearing conditions where you really need a heavy duty design like a Fleco root rake or a multi shank ripper, scarifier. Your spacing is probably very important as you dont want to just make grooves I suppose, be able to rake cleanly and if the soils are hard/compacted & dry, it ought to fracture better or as needed to re-grade.

I've seen some shop built root rakes that were built from similar thickness steel, seemed to work well, maybe you can design the shanks to fit standard teeth, or have the tines hardened, hard faced, probably last a long while in those conditions.

I think the mount depends on what the tractor is designed for, you have a crawler loader, would seem that they were built for rear mounted rippers. I've done a little raking with 977's and 955's using the teeth, but carefully and slow.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 10, 2010

Thanks for your input. I think with a rear mounted unit, you could go faster and not have to be so careful trying to keep a consistant depth. The last thing I need to do is bend my bucket cylinders using the teeth pointed down. I see morons in skid steers with the bucket pointed straight down and the front wheels a foot of the ground, going full speed ahead clearing snow. I'd bet they blame the machine for not being strong enough when the bend or break the cylinders. Another idea I had was to put cut down culitivator sweeps on the shanks. I've seen this on a ripper before. Dave

Billy NY · Jun 10, 2010

I use a bucket pointed down on occasion, but carefully, no high speed, and on loose material, or just on the surface, very slowly, and not for snow ! Sometimes its nice to see the cutting edge, but I realize you could bend a cylinder if you were to hit something like a rock, stump, so I agree, not the best practice there, rear mounted, cultivator shanks might work out. I think shanks have to be heavy enough and or stiffened/braced, seems to be an important detail on something like this.

M Diesel · Jun 15, 2010

For a moto track the biggest problem I can think of is control. Not being on flat ground makes things tough to judge. I would think having a rear mounted scar with hydraulic float might be the best thing, especially if the teeth are angled right, perhaps using something like a fixed skid plate or a roller for a max depth control. Force the teeth into the ground when needed, and drag after that. You would still have the front bucket for shaping, and the rear scarifier for breaking dirt. Of course the rear mount means you have to turn around to work on jump faces and such, so it is all a trade off.

My 2 bits.

Scarifier or root rake?

Anonymous-0

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Billy NY

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Anonymous-0

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captain_crunch

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Anonymous-0

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Billy NY

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Anonymous-0

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Billy NY

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M Diesel

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