Oh happy day! Electrical problem solved!

Anonymous-0 · Jan 21, 2010

An auto electric place told me to put a clamp or something on the circuit breaker/protector to bypass it. I put a small needle nose vice grip on the 2 terminals and it was problem free for 2 hours! I took the circuit breaker to the guy and he took the cover off it. It had a lot of corrosion on the inside and the spring was lost in the metal. He said it was the problem. He didn't have a 40 amp in stock but sent me to Napa. A $9 fix. I did burn my thumb a little because it was right beside the hot engine. From the outside, the circuit breaker had no corrosion at all. What a relief. Thanks for everyones help. Dave

440roadrunner · Jan 21, 2010

(quoted from post at 18:54:03 01/21/10) An auto electric place told me to put a clamp or something on the circuit breaker/protector to bypass it. I put a small needle nose vice grip on the 2 terminals and it was problem free for 2 hours! I took the circuit breaker to the guy and he took the cover off it. It had a lot of corrosion on the inside and the spring was lost in the metal. He said it was the problem. He didn't have a 40 amp in stock but sent me to Napa. A $9 fix. I did burn my thumb a little because it was right beside the hot engine. From the outside, the circuit breaker had no corrosion at all. What a relief. Thanks for everyones help. Dave

This post makes no sense because ? I'm guessing it's in reference to ANOTHER post, and you should have added your reply to your original.

BUT I CAN tell you this: Those rectangular breakers--I'm sure you seem to be referring to----will trip EARLY (lower current) WHEN EXPOSED to a lot of engine heat. Keep them away from hot engines, and better yet, clear out of the engine compartment away from things like moisture, battery acid fumes, and road splash.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 21, 2010

Heat generates current flow. It's how solar panels create energy.

The detents on breakers are prone to failure but you can never see them from the outside.
A digital multimeter is a valuble tool!

Anonymous-0 · Jan 21, 2010

I've posted a few times about the electrical problems I was having with my skid steer. If you'd have looked down the page several posts, you would have seen one of them. The breaker has been in since new in 1994. It is bolted onto a little plate welded to the frame. I think the little plate is to help keep it cool. On the other side of the frame is the oil pan. I took the breaker out after using the machine for 2 hours. The breaker didn't seem hot at all but the top of the frame was. 16/17 years for a $9 breaker seems like pretty good service to me. A little frustrating figuring out what was wrong but now I know what to check in another 17 years. Dave

david - or · Jan 24, 2010

A solar CELL generates current flow through the photovoltaic effect. The incident LIGHT creates the electricity, not the heat. Put a solar cell in a dark room and hit it with a blowtorch and it will not generate a current flow.

A solar COLLECTOR converts incident light to heat through absorption of the light. It does not generate a current flow.

Heat applied to a thermocouple generates a (small) current flow. That's the only example I can think of where heat is converted directly to an electrical current.

Oh happy day! Electrical problem solved!

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

440roadrunner

Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

david - or

Member

Similar threads