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CAT D3B Steering Clutch

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Tom H.

02-25-2002 06:04:10




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I just bought my first crawler, a CAT D3B (1984?). I noticed the left steering clutch needs to be depressed all the way down before it will turn. I suppose the first thing to do is to see if the "slack" can be taken up.

My question is, to get at the linkages do you remove the floor panels? The seller had no manuals, so before I start "rippin" things apart, maybe someone can provide me with some guidance!

Thanks in advance.

Tom

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Charles H. Ford, Jr.

03-03-2002 07:43:44




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 Re: CAT D3B Steering Clutch in reply to Tom H., 02-25-2002 06:04:10  
I just rebuilt the steering clutches and brakes in my 1981 D3B. Here is what the book says. Underneath the tractor, directly beneath each clutch/brake compartment is a 1/2" bolt, square head, with lock nut, which screws up into the floor of the compartment. A guard is welded around the bold. This bolt pushes up against the bottom of the brake band and keeps the weight of the band from resting on the brake drum and dragging the linings. Screw the bolt in until it pushes the band against the drum. The bolt should be snug, but not tight. Then unscrew the bolt one turn and lock down the locknut. This will allow the brake band to fall away from the drum by about 1/16".

Then remove the diamond shaped plates which cover the adjusters. They are beneath the seat and each has two bolts. A real pain to get to. The adjuster is a 9/16" hex rod. The book says first tighten the hex rod top take all slack out of the brake band, and then loosen the hex rod so that the brake pedal has 3.9 to 4.4" of free play. The book also says this will be about 3 turns loose from tight on the hex rod.

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Bob /Ont.

02-26-2002 13:45:29




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 Re: CAT D3B Steering Clutch in reply to Tom H., 02-25-2002 06:04:10  
Tom. Be carefull, I am assumeing your pedals hang from the dash. If so some have got ground up brake drums from linkage problems. Hope you don't, but try this. If there are two 1" caps beside the seat there are extentions under them. If not come in from the back, look for two small covers with two bolt in them. Take them off. Wind adj.up as tight as you can, them check for peddel travel,
you shouldn't have any. If there is play the rods to the brake are adj. too long, make them as short you can and still get the pins back in. From here you back off the adj. to get the desired pedal travel, which I forget. You can probably wing that yourself, app. 1/2way down+.
Then you should be able to steer with light toe pressure. If you can't adj. tight enough the band lining is worn too much, maybe drum scored, hope not. If you can adj. okay and it steers hard
the small bearing on the end of the steering valve could be worn out, (usualy are). The steering valves are under the floor plates on the front of the steering clutch housing.
This should steer you in the right direction.Bob

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murray

02-25-2002 07:24:23




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 Re: CAT D3B Steering Clutch in reply to Tom H., 02-25-2002 06:04:10  
we have a 79 d3 great machine the steering is ajusted under the seat. on the older model like ours there is a small cover on top over where the cluches are on each side with 2 bolts. under it is the ajuster use a 9/16" socket and you can tighten up the brake. be carfull not to over tighten it or when you use it they will tighten up when it gets hot. the ajuster is detented and will click. I belive the newer machines had the ajuster on the outside of the housing so you may not have a cover to remove but it is still in the same place on the machine under the seat.

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Tom H

02-25-2002 09:18:48




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 Re: Re: CAT D3B Steering Clutch in reply to murray, 02-25-2002 07:24:23  
Murray;

Thanks! I'll give it a try!



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