terratrac gt 30 info needed

Trapperjoemo

New User
Having trouble steering. Cant find an appropriate repair manual. where do I access the brakes to check them out? The levers move freely, but it takes both hands to pull either lever hard enough to get even limited turning.
 
If indeed it's the same transmission, you're supposed to have 1/4" free play at the cam levers on the rear of the tranny. That is adjusted inside after taking the rear cover off. Be prepared to make yourself a thick gasket. After that, adjust the foot brake to give 1/8" free play at the cam lever. Then adjust your steering levers to suit without shortening that 1/8" free play. Oil should be 80 or 90 weight [b:6a030efe3e]Straight Mineral Gear Oil[/b:6a030efe3e].

This post was edited by WilBury on 10/25/2022 at 07:31 pm.
 
Just did mine yesterday. I had new 3/8" NF Gr7 threaded rods with rounded long nuts (they fit against he rounded sockets of the linkage) I made long ago, and double nuts for locknuts. The originals were not easily adjustable.
Checked for the transmission free play, wasn't off too much.
Made sure the steering levers were flat on the floor where they sit. Tightened the segment between the cam ears & the steering levers till 1/8" free play left at the cam with the brakes released.
Then I brought the foot brake double nuts w/washers just touching flush. Kinda need 2 people for fine tuning by feel both sides of the foot brake.
 
So, you have a small Terratrac dozer? Have you replaced/rebuilt the brake bands? I have not opened up the cover yet, as I don't want to mess up what I have if I can't get parts to repair if needed.
Is it a wet band brake? Can that be rebuilt or replaced?
 
You know, a few pictures are worth a few thousand words if you can manage it.
I have the Case 310E & have rebuilt my trans/diff. https://www.mycnhistore.com/ca/en/c...actor/cn/8ACD6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Looks like service manuals for your model are non-existent so you'll have to try to figure it out going by similar models.
I see there's no foot brake so that's a little simpler.
Wet brakes, bands can be relined if necessary & in good shape. Straight Mineral Gear Oil (GL-1) is required to prevent band glazing and is best for brass bushings.
Check that free play at the transmission cam levers. If it's excessive or if the linkage inside is bottoming against the rear plate, you'll have to open it up & adjust the linkage. If you have the PTO, I suppose it'll cost you a shaft seal(s) (number on the seal) as well as the oil & gasket material. At least then you'll know what you've got & what you might want to fix or replace. You might find a bearing or two screaming at you, numbers are on them.
If it's not working for you now, you don't have much to lose by at least looking at it. Keep us posted.

P.S. - If the PTO is too far gone you could just replace it with the plain rear cover. Easily available.

This post was edited by WilBury on 12/08/2022 at 06:41 am.
 
You could try checking with the J.I. Case Collectors Association to see if they might have some information on the GT 30.
 
Looking more closely at the Case parts page for the 256 & 300, I don't see any adjustment in there. It's a poor diagram, but maybe the only thing you can do in there is maybe replace the linkage pins & reline the brake bands.

Try Jim's suggestion & dig a little deeper.
 
I worked on the GT 30 brakes. All I did was drain the fluid and reverse the brake bands. They had wear on one end but not the other. The fluid looked terrible! I replaced it with Universal tractor hydro fluid suitable for wet brake applications. Brakes work much better now.
I may try to post a couple pictures if I can figure out how to do that.
Thanks again to those that helped.
 
That's great, good job! Many times I've seen parts that can be turned around or swapped to give a fresh surface. Always worth a look.
If that is the transmission I think it is, the various machine manufacturers that use it all seem to use different brake drums & bands/linkage. Everything else should be identical tho.
I should look into an alternate fluid like you describe. That GL-1 is hard to find for me. Been changing mine every 100-200 hours now & always looks dirty.
 
So, I'm back into the GT30 dozer again. Had a bad fluid leak when i refilled after the brake band repair. It's the oil seal inside the outer case behind the drive sprocket. It was a bear to get apart! Now I'll need to resurface that lower shaft and replace all 4 bearings and the seal. My question is about the fluid level/refill. Previously I drained the rear end/ differential case through the lowest drain plug on the rear end. My fluid leak occurred at the bottom of the final drive case. I see a drain plug and a check/fill plug on the that case. But the fluid I put in was the top of the differential case. Is the fluid in the diff case suppose to run through to the final drive cases? Do I just refill at the top diff untill fluid runs out the final drive check holes?
Or is the final drive somehow different/separated from the fluid in the differential?
 
They are separate. Fill the transmission/differential to the side level plug & the final drive cases to their side level plug. Use Permatex #2 on the final case flanges. Have an eye for several (3?) 1/2" "body fit" bolts or holes that are supposed to help you accurately align the cases. Usually 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock & 6 o'clock. I use 1/2" rod to align things on assembly.
On the parts page I referenced earlier in this thread, I see some identical parts to the Case 310E that I have. Aftermarket pinions & other parts are available but 50% are improperly machined so beware. Bearings are fairly pricey too so you want to get the "stack" dialed in as best you can.
I might have several decent used parts I can let go pretty cheap including 6-spline pinion(s), seal housing(s). I'd be slow to ship & from Canada.
It's all doable my friend, but ya need patience & $. Keep looking for a manual.
 
(quoted from post at 06:03:38 03/19/23) They are separate. Fill the transmission/differential to the side level plug & the final drive cases to their side level plug. Use Permatex #2 on the final case flanges. Have an eye for several (3?) 1/2" "body fit" bolts or holes that are supposed to help you accurately align the cases. Usually 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock & 6 o'clock. I use 1/2" rod to align things on assembly.
On the parts page I referenced earlier in this thread, I see some identical parts to the Case 310E that I have. Aftermarket pinions & other parts are available but 50% are improperly machined so beware. Bearings are fairly pricey too so you want to get the "stack" dialed in as best you can.
I might have several decent used parts I can let go pretty cheap including 6-spline pinion(s), seal housing(s). I'd be slow to ship & from Canada.
It's all doable my friend, but ya need patience & $. Keep looking for a manual.
Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 08:46:38 03/19/23) My pleasure! Any questions at all, ask away. If I can't help you, others will.
I'm going to try and get some pictures uploaded. I'm not sure my machine is that similar to yours. Like you said a picture is worth a thousand words sometimes.
 

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