Case 580 backhoe cyl. pins removal

I believe i have a 1970 backhoe as its says 7-20-70 there on the side , and its on my 66-71 580 backhoe ...Im trying to take the leaky
swing cylindersn off to rebuild them and so the video I watched showed the swing cylinders fastened to the hoe with big bolts vertical and
easy to take off and mine is different as there is a big horizontal bolt at bottom and a vertical pins ? so I have the bolts out and
then do I just drive the pins out ? and is it better to drive them down or up . realize I dont have to take them all the way out so its
harder to get at them from the top? before I start to bang on them I just want so advice? and whats the differennce in these hoes?

Looks like yours is held in with pinch bolts. Make sure there aren't snap rings too. My 580b doesn't have the pinch bolts, just snap rings. Easier to drive down than up if the pins aren't tapered. The pins will may a slot for the bolt so the can't drop out. Bolt may have to come all the way out. If they do, when you put them back put them in from the bottom. Again, double check there are no snap rings. Take the cylinder apart before you order your seals. It could have a 1 or 2 piece piston. Need to know which to get the right seals. I left mine on and just took the rod out when I did mine, just took the hoses loose. Once you take the hose loose there should be no bind on the pin. Unless it is worn bad it should just about drop out.

well I took a long punch and pushed the big pins out from the top and there was spacers but it was not a problem ....but now The cylinder rod removal I took the cylinder loose by taking just 1 hose off and then the top and bottom 4 bolt caps the the cylinder pivots on and I was able to move the cylinder out enought to get the gland cap spun off. and now trying to pull the rod out with a come along but seems to not want to come out and the cylinderrs were working before , so its not stuck and trying not to pull it on an angle either so not to put the rod in a bind ...next Im going to take off the other hose in case its stuck because of air trapped?? Not sure but it was working fine before I decided to repairand the cylinders were free and moving fine but really leaking bad. so it seems stuck for some reason. ,.On your reply I dont understand what pin your reffering to? you evedently just took off 1 hose that allowed it to pivot more towards the outside in order toslide the rod out ? I could not get the gland off so I removed both of the upper and lower 4 bolt fasteners that the cylinder pivots on and that allowed me to move the cylinder far enought out to get the gland spun off. so I will try to loosing up the other hoes up in case that somehow the rod is trapped by air has tha rod locked up ?? and see if the rod comes out and if not I guess I will push it out with the hydraulic s ? Also once I change out the seals is there an easy way to get it all pushed back in the cylinder? It seems like it would be hard

well finally got rod out and now one more but Im gong to try the way you did .

so I got them pulled out . do you know what type of seal kit I need ? where to get it ? thanks marlin

Need to take both hoses off. If you don't you will be pulling fluid or trying to push fluid through a closed valve. You can take them lose from the other end if it's easier. That pin is spring loaded pressure relief. There is a flat washer behind the spring that will fall out, don't lose it. Should be #'s on the gland. Get the # or take it apart and see if it's 1 or 2 piece. Call Dale Weiss at e-tractorparts. He or his wife will know exactly what you have. It looks like a 1 piece. Wipe the bore out well and don't rub the new seals against the barrel threads when putting back. May as well do both. The minute you put pressure to it, the other will start to leak. The real hard part is getting the bolt out. I put a bar through the eye and parked a stabilizer on the bar. Don't scratch the rod, put a towel or wood under it. 3/4 or 1 inch drive and a 5 foot bar should break it loose. Something like 500 or 600 lbs of torque on the bolt. Loctite when you put it back, so clean the threads with brake or carb cleaner. Both male and female.

Sorry. It's e-backhoeparts.