HD3 Allis Dozer refurbished injectors installed

Forum,
Had a family reunion this weekend and had a chance to install the refurbished injectors on the HD3 Allis. Finally tried to start the engine but did not get it to start. The pump is pulling fuel but is not getting to the injectors. One injector was bubbling but no fluid visible. Will try again in 4-6 weeks. Looking at the exhaust it is heading in the right direction. May have to pull the pump again.
With all this commotion if you have followed this one year story I also had trouble with the manual primer. Thought I had it cured but it would not pull from the tank. Finally took it completely apart and found the same gunk that was in the tank, pump and injectors. Small check valves were glued/stuck in the primer body. Cleaned it and now it pumps as it should. Wish this was in my back yard instead of 170 miles away!! Any and all comments are welcome.

Did you bleed the fuel delivery system? Any time you open up the fuel delivery system (change the fuel filters, replace a fuel line, etc) you will need to bleed the fuel system to get all the air out of the fuel lines, filter, etc. Make sure you have a large quantity of fuel coming out of the line that feeds the injector pump (IP). If you don't have a good flow of fuel coming out at the inlet to the IP, make sure the tank strainer, the fuel lines and the filters are clear and free of air. The filter might be good but there can be trash in the filter head and fittings reducing the fuel delivery.

Did you see a white fog that smelled like diesel fuel coming out of the exhaust when you tried to start it. If you didn't, that's an indication that you're not getting fuel to the cylinders. I diesel engine in reasonable mechanical condition needs fuel, air and good compression to start. By the way is the air filter clean?

Good Luck !

Thanks for the reply. First thing I did last summer was add a diesel fuel biocide. That has kept the microbes at bay. After installing the cleaned injectors I finally tried starting it yesterday morning. It did not start. I did notice white smoke coming out of the exhaust which is an improvement from before when only one cylinder seemed to be getting fuel. Reason for the improvement is clean injectors. As far as fuel to the pump and the pump working half way, I removed the IJ pump cover and while turning over the engine fuel flowed out of the pump reservoir. Now to get fuel from IJ pump to cylinders. All injectors were cracked open and only one showing air bubbles. Close but no cigars!
The engine does have a lot of blow by as the breather tube is leaving an oil trail where ever the crawler travels. Does that mean probably has low compression too? Except for the fuel system the HD3 is fully operational, everything works!! Any additional advice is appreciated.

That little tractor is been very naughty and it is a very bad sign if it is leaving an oil trail, check to see the oil pan has not filled up with diesel, if that's ok and it is blowing out the oil that means the compression is escaping down past the piston/s and that makes hard starting, I don't recall you mention the blow by before but it is one of the most talked about thing when talking about engine condition, you mentioned before smoke and several of us suggested working it for a few hours but I think if we knew about the oil trail we would be suggesting another course of action, like a compression test or having a look at the rings, pistons and liners.
AJ

AJ,
Yes, the HD3 has an oil trail when running for a extended period of time. I have considered a rebuild but have not had any problems til this gunk set up in the tank except for hard
starting. How difficult it changing rings and sleeves without removing the engine from the frame? Being in my seventies and the crawler being 3 plus hours away just not sure of what to
do! As mentioned in my last post the machine is in full operating condition, everything works! Any additional advice will be appreciated.

Biocide just kills what is there and then keeps the bugs from starting to grow again. Did you clean and out the sludge from the tank after you added the biocide and let it set? If you didn't, then I would pull the strainer out of the tank bottom and flush the tank. Then follow the fuel line to the filter head an make sure the filter head and attendant fuel lines are clear all the way to the pump.(I'm presuming you checked and replaced the fuel filter.) If your fuel system has a lift pump, does it have an internal screen? If it does check that. Also is the lift pump actually pumping? Some IP's need 2-5 psi at the IP inlet. Does your pump have a bleeder screw? If you have good fuel flow to the injector pump, use the bleeder screw to bleed the pump. Fuel should squirt pretty forcibly out of the pump bleed hole. Did you check the injector lines from pump to the injectors? When you crank the engine do you get fuel only out of the injector lines? It takes fuel, air, and compression for a diesel to produce power so you have to make sure that all of these are present when you try to start. If this machine has sat for a long time there could be a lot of crud in the fuel delivery system and even though you see fuel spray out the stack, unless you have fuel in sufficient quantity it won't run. Cleaning the injectors won't do much if the fuel delivery is weak to the pump. I can't emphasize this too much!

How about the air supply. No mouse nests in the intake or a clogged air filter?

Finally, check the compression. All the air and fuel won't work if the compression is too low. The heat of compression is what causes the fuel spray to ignite. You may have a hole in the piston crown or stuck or broken rings, etc. (Broken rings and/or broken piston lands can be caused by an over application of starting fluid and will cause low compression.)

P.S.Make sure the return to tank line from the pump is not plugged.

Tank was completely cleaned with acetone last summer. After cleaning I refueled the tank and added a biocide and have not had recurring sludge. All lines and pump were cleaned. Changed the fuel filters and the air filter. The injector pump is pumping, just not quite to the injectors, close as I see air bubbles from one of the injector connectors. The engine has a lot of blow by so compression is certainly not up to specs. In a quandary, do I replace the rings and sleeves just for hard starting, Will keep you posted.

Keep working to get air free fuel to all the injectors. Al lot of these old engines will start if you get fuel to all the cylinders. And a compression check is always a good thing to do for a non-starter engine. Have you tried putting ATF in the cylinders. Low compression can be caused by stuck rings. While you are trying to get fuel to the cylinders, take out the injectors or glow plugs if you have them and crank the engine as you try to establish adequate fuel delivery to the cylinders. This will make it easier on the battery. Keep adding ATF and when you establish good fuel flow to the injectors, then re-install them and by then you may have loosened the rings. It may work and start.
Good luck and keep me informed.

Ok so you know the engine is worn but was running till the fuel issue now by what you are saying it is not injecting fuel, the stop control in the pump could be stuck in the shut off position even though the control on the outside is in the run, the stop is pushed to off by a linkage and pulled to run by a spring, if the metering valve sticks the spring just expands and the valve does not move, it takes very little for the valve to stick, that is why you will often see me saying to make sure that the stop control should be pushed in and the throttle on full after they are stopped on all diesels regardless of the pump, inline or rotary as anything with a governor the throttle does not have a direct linkage to the rack or metering valve it must go through a spring, if you get the engine to run you could then try a heavier engine oil or even try some of that liquid repair additive that does be advertised, other than that it is a tear down, hard to say what may be needed but the very least would be rings, it is very hard for you it been so far from home, days work in itself traveling.
AJ

AJ
Good question! My question in response is will the transfer internal pump move fuel and shut of valve not function? I have flow through the pump as observed when I removed the IJ
pump cover. Fuel flowed freely when turning over the engine. Believe I am close with air bubbles coming out of one injector connector when last tried on Sunday. When I travel to
northern Minnesota next I am going to give the transfer pump a little boost applying extra pressure with an electric fuel pump attached to the relief plug opening between the two
filters. It will have a seperate fuel source and I must shut off the sediment bowl valve to prevent back flow. Know this is probably not in the service manual but I will try anything to get
her running. Appreciate your advice. Any and all input is appreciated.

The stop and throttle is one and the same and is referred to as the metering valve, if the metering valve is in the stop position no fuel will get to the injectors, you will not get fuel to all the injectors at the same time in count of the timing order, the best way to bleed the system open the bleeder on the pump, use the primer till air free fuel comes from the bleeder, close the bleeder, prime on till the primer goes hard, open each injector line nut a couple of turns, throttle on full crank the engine over and after say 10/20 seconds cranking the fuel should be spurting from the injector lines, tighten them up and you should be good for a start, if you don't get fuel to the injectors take the cover from the pump and check the metering valve is in run as in the picture, if it not move it manually to run, put the cover back and hope.
AJ