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350 JD New metallic Steering Clutches Slip

A

AKD1

New User
Recently replaced both left and right steering clutches and both sides slip. Previously I had fiber discs but light use and long periods of inactivity raised hell with the fiber discs.i Installed new bimetallic and new metal discs set pressure plate fingers with JD#7 gauge. During the 1st shake down run I drove it up to a large tree and it just started slipping on both sides all other functions seen to be correct. It did load up the engine some but in no way threatened to stall the engine I’m new to the bi metal discs I’ve done both sides using fiber had no issues in the as far as set up and adjustment I have a service manual all adjustments are per the manual.
Is there a brake in period?
Same pressure plate as fiber plates?
On both sides I can see the throw out bearing move about 3/8” before contacting the pressure plate fingers.
Or did shoot myself by not replacing the pressure plates this go around? The old plates were rusted and swelled could that have compressed or compromised the pressure plate springs?
Any help would be welcomed
 
(quoted from post at 22:02:58 06/18/20) Recently replaced both left and right steering clutches and both sides slip. Previously I had fiber discs but light use and long periods of inactivity raised hell with the fiber discs.i Installed new bimetallic and new metal discs set pressure plate fingers with JD#7 gauge. During the 1st shake down run I drove it up to a large tree and it just started slipping on both sides all other functions seen to be correct. It did load up the engine some but in no way threatened to stall the engine I m new to the bi metal discs I ve done both sides using fiber had no issues in the as far as set up and adjustment I have a service manual all adjustments are per the manual.
Is there a brake in period?
Same pressure plate as fiber plates?
On both sides I can see the throw out bearing move about 3/8" before contacting the pressure plate fingers.
Or did shoot myself by not replacing the pressure plates this go around? The old plates were rusted and swelled could that have compressed or compromised the pressure plate springs?
Any help would be welcomed
Click to expand...

It sounds like lack of pressure on the discs to me. By most reports I've seen the bi-metallic discs are more aggressive than the fiber discs, opposite of what you describe. I would have replaced the pressure plates if I spent the money on new frictions and steels.

Knowing exactly what you did and how you assembled may rule some things out. 1. Did you measure the thickness of the new frictions and steels to see that they matched specs? 2. Did you install the same number of friction and steel discs as you removed? 3. Did you measure the reused components to see that they were within spec? 4. Did you check assembled stack height of the steering clutch?

You say you have done this successfully with fiber frictions before, so it would seem the problem is related to the stack out dimensions of the new discs or reused components of the clutch assemblies. Just my thoughts.
 
I’m just throwing this out there, you can cross it off the list. Did you clean the oil off the new discs before installation? I know it’s a rookie mistake and it sounds like you are not, but hey, sometimes the small things get overlooked.
 
That's rotten luck,you sure that it is the steering clutches that is slipping as it seems very unlikely that the two clutches should have an issue at the same time,are the controls releasing fully,were the old discs completely worn out, one would think with new discs you would have drive even if the pressure plates are a bit weak.
AJ
 
This is a straight 350 correct? Does it have a reverser or not. No reverser has a regular clutch which if it fails will cause weak/slipping drive to both sides. A reverser unit has an isolator and I believe those stop all together if they break, unless the pieces jam up.
 
Were it mine, I would put it against that same tree, and this time I would use the extreme right side of the blade. If both tracks "slip" I would suspect the master clutch. In any case it is important to be sure the new clutches are at fault Jim
 
The seller advertised the bimetallic as a direct replacement and took the order the order the phone telling me the count was the same as fiber
 
1 No
2 Yes
3 No
4 No, but total stack height was very close to the stack height of fiber
disc. Without the thick internal spline of the fiber the bimetallics
looked to be correct. The pull down or preload amount of the
pressure looked reasonable as well.
 
The new stack height should be higher than the worn one,are those generic discs you are using,if it's the case that an extra disc has to be used it could mean that the drums are different or the new parts are not the right,if it was mine I would put in the extra disc rather than change the pressure plates to find there were still slipping,my two cents worth.
AJ
 

If the aftermarket discs, steel and/or friction were thinner than JD spec the total stack height would be low and could throw the pressure plate off even when adjusted. (This may be why some post about using an extra disc with bi-metallic frictions.) That coupled with using the old pressure plate and possible wear in the clutch drum could be your problem. Just my thoughts. You might want to call your vendor and ask if others reported similar problems.
 
With the dry clutch any oil not removed from the parts before installation is a problem. I only know what I read on YT and other tractor forums about this, but the way I understand it is ALL THE PACKING OIL is to be removed with brake cleaner and then, alternate stacking, beginning with the plate. Like Jim says, make sure your stack height is correct, even if it’s supposed to be a straight swap over.
 
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