JD 450 (straigh) steering issue

On my machine, R/O tractor oil was inadvertently put into the clutch housings. Believing the tractor had wet clutches, instead of dry clutches. Although one side (left) came back to life after both housings were flushed out with Kerozene, the other has very little steering capability. Does anyone have a remedy to help this situation? Will it slowly start to steer with use? The left side needing adjustment, is the one that came back to life. The other was operation just fine up till the oil was put in and now has very little steering control. Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!!

Replacement is the proper answer for oil soaked dry clutches and brakes.

The thing I don't get is why one side seems to be functioning properly, and not the other? Both chambers were filled with oil, and both were flushed with kerozene. Although the weak side barely steers, but only shows minor steerage. If I pull back on both levers, the machine comes to a complete stop. And releasing one lever at a time, the appropriate track will go in motion. Any idea?

Most likely it is just the difference in how much oil the discs and brakes happened to absorb. If one side was glazed more than the other, the oil absorption rate may have been lower, that could be one reason. The steels and/or drum may have had a rougher surface on one side than the other, so it grips different. Either way things will likely slip if you really start working and they get hot. You can try flushing with other things if someone suggests, your decision. People have used brake cleaners and then baking frictions in an oven or heating with a torch to try to get oil out. I have heard of burying frictions in oil absorbent for an extended time, many things have been done and sometimes get by. Its your machine and decision, try any fix you want to try, run it if you want to, it may get better for a while. If you aren't making a living using it, your loss will have less impact if something you try totally fails.

The correct remedy is to open it up clean and dry everything and replace the friction discs and brake bands. I don't remember ever seeing any of the above "fixes" recommended in manuals. Some fixes have caused damage to the frictions, such as separation from the band or disc. The steel discs and brake drums may be OK but unless you just did the steering clutches and know those are to spec, they may have have to be replaced based on wear, not because they got oil on them, they will clean. JMHO

How did someone decide your machine had wet clutches? Wrong or no manual? Also I don't think R/O (Rust & Oxidization inhibitor) hydraulic oil is a wet clutch oil for steering clutches or reversers/transmissions. Do you have that oil in your reverser/transmission?

I'm not trying to give you a hard time (sorry if it sounds that way), just trying to give you realistic things to think about as you decide what to do. Again the final decision of what you do, to your machine, is yours.

At the first Deere dealership I worked at in the late 1960s, it was common to put a few gallons of lacquer thinner in the steering clutch
housing to make it work better if oil soaked. NOT a great fix, but it did improve them at times. Usually the clutches got oil on them from a
leaking internal seal, not from someone dumping oil in like you did. Kerosene IS oil, so I do not see how it would be of any benefit.

I take it by what you are saying the steering brake is not stopping the track for that side,start by adjusting the clutches and brakes to spec,see if the machine stops when you disengage both clutches,if so then it's a brake issue,might still be oil on the band,work it some and see.
AJ