H60E transmission problems

Elanier81

Member
Was wondering if anyone had any idea where I could get a O-ring kit # 142897H3 for a H60E PAYLOADER with S-700 International transmission
 
These are new pressure numbers for all gear positions. All pressures were taken at the same time by having different gauges on all clutch packs and torque converter at same time.

cvphoto18706.jpg


cvphoto18707.jpg
 
Can't help with the o'rings cept suggest matching them up at the hydraulic shop or obtain a box of assorted ones,the figures you posted do not mean anything to me,for the moment concentrate on first gear forward,find the port for the gauge for first gear,attach the gauge start the engine select first and note the pressure,fix the gauge to forward,start the engine and note the pressure,at this point the machine should have drive,if the pressure is zero and the pump is good there is a leak internally,the regulator valve could be leaking,the clutch cut-out dumping the oil or something else that is common to both clutch packs,I do not have a schematic of the oil path to be able to make a suggestion,its unlikely both the first and forward clutch would fail at the same time,esp when parked?.
AJ
 
AJ,
across the top, forward, reverse, 1st,
2nd, 3rd, oil supply and torque converter.
Down the left side neutral, forward and
reverse for each gear. We had a seperate
gauge on all clutch packs, the oil supply
and the torque converter simultaneously.
We did this to confirm that we had stopped
all the leaks in the selection valve.
Before we replaced all the O-rings in the
selection valve we had oil bypassing and
going to multiple clutch packs at the same
time. Now, it appears that our leakage is
internal.

I did have a heavy equipment mechanic tell
me that I could be reading that good
pressure on third gear at the clutch pack
where the gauge is attached but still be
losing it internally behind that.

We are now looking at pulling the first
gear clutch pack which is outside of the
transmission and replacing the O-rings on
the end of the shaft where the oil supply
goes in to the shaft. And then we can also
see if the inner and outer seals on the
Piston itself are bad. If just the O-rings
on the end of the shaft are bad, we are
hoping that we can pull the cover plates
at the other clutch packs and replace the
O-rings on the end of the shaft where the
oil Supply goes into the shaft.

The mechanic also told me that changing
the fluid, which we have done, in an older
machine, can cause the old seals / O-rings
to not seal properly anymore.
Am I getting correct information from the
mechanic?

Also the top chart is at idle. The second
chart is at higher RPM which is what the
manuals tell you to do to check real
pressures. As you can see by the pressures
in 3rd gear it appears that it should be
running unless it is bypassing past the
pressure gauge, as the mechanic told me
could be happening?
 
Pulled first gear clutch pack and piston
seals were shot, as in shredded. Friction
plates were also very worn so we are
replacing them also.
Question about repacking plates. There are
15 plates 14 friction plates and 14
Springs. I can get about 10 of each in the
housing before I am up above the splines
on the shaft. the friction plates have
teeth that line up with the shaft splines.
I cannot figure out how to press the other
ones down as I finish stacking them till I
can get the end cap on. Is there a special
tool or do I just need to have the last
ones lined up perfectly and slide in all
at once and compress to get the end cap
on?
 
I don't know off hand what tools are required but surely you have a manual,those type jobs require a time served engineer that has years of experience,this business of DIY is hit and miss,why not get a heavy equipment mechanic or transmission shop to rebuild it for you,it would be money well spent.
AJ
 
I packed the first gear clutch pack and put back in. The other two clutch packs are 2nd and 3rd, reverse and forward. I am assuming with having the first gear clutch pack nice and tight it allowed enough oil to go to forward and reverse and make it run. 2nd gear appears to have lost its piston seals also now.

3rd gear is also working again but obviously losing too much oil pressure which is causing it to slip and not run like it should. I believe that the added pressure that forward and reverse got from first gear being tight probably caused it to blow something out of there allowing 3rd gear to work partially now also

Will probably be rebuilding 2nd 3rd and reverse forward clutch packs before too long. Wanted to update so it might help others, that the Piston seals which are in the clutch packs is enough to stop it from running and caused all the problems. I believe the heavy equipment mechanic that told me new fluid in an old machine with old seals would deteriorate them quickly, was correct. Also where you read clutch pack pressures if everything is good up to there it will appear that you have enough pressure for the machine to go but once it gets inside to bad Piston seals, that pressure is too low at that point. The heavy equipment mechanic told me that was a possibility also.
thanks for the input from others.
 

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