'47 Cat D4 Steering Problems

I bought this machine this spring got it running been sitting for about 3 years. So finally got around to tinkering with it again but as I was bringing it in2 the shop I couldn't get it to turn. Left was alright but no turn to the right. I bought the books for it an just really wondering if the brake bands are worn or would it be the steering clutches?I used it alittle this spring an adjusted the brakes which helped some but you really gotta stand on the brakes to make it turn. What's your guys thoughts.

The opposite clutch has to drive during a turn (left clutch drives to turn right, right clutch drives to turn left).

First check to see that the steering clutches are fully disengaging. While traveling, on flat ground or up hill, if you pull on both steering clutch levers will it stop without using the brakes? If not the clutches are out of adjustment, as they must disengage for proper steering.

Next try pushing (or pulling if you don't have a blade) something for a load. When you pull the right lever does it start to turn left without using the brake for that side? Try the same for the left side. If it stops, and doesn't drive on the side opposite the lever you have pulled, that clutch is slipping and likely needs replacement.

If it stops in the first check and both tracks drive during the second test, then check the brakes. Look closely to see if they have oil or grease on them. If they do, that will require more force to effect braking action. Source of the oil or grease will need to be found, stopped, and linings replaced after cleaning the area. If they are dry you can try adjusting them again. If that doesn't work they likely need to be relined. Being glazed, rusty, and/or down to the rivets will require more force to make them work.

the first thing i did on my d4 was pull the plugs on the steering compartments to drain any water and oil in there. then i replaced the plugs ---and poured a couple gallons of kerosene into each compartment. then i ran it back and forth and let it slosh around real good. drained them again and lots of oil,grease and crud flushed out

I cant test it now since I'm waiting on filters an oil. But when I used it this spring I was pulling stumps out and it seemed to be alright. It did require a some force to make it turn tho. And like what was stated I did pull the brake adjusters outta the bottom of the tractor an a gallon or so of water come out on both sides. If the steering clutches are bad where does one find parts 4 it?

here is a good outfit

http://www.tractorparts.com/

We had to do that with my father-inlaws D4, Clean an adjust them. If you find that
you need them I have his extra set of used clutches in my garage that he would
probably sell. I'm located in Northwestern PA.

Pull the plugs in the bottom. Then put your finger in there and feel if there is a ridge of grime around the hole after it stops draining. If there is try getting what you can out, then pour about a gallon of solvent ,gasoline, diesel fuel your choice then run it for a few hours with that in there if they are stuck from grime this will wash it out and the clutch loose. Putting a load like the blade digging or pulling a tillage tool like a plow or heavy disc will help. If it gets better on the steering drain strain and reuse again. After it is done and works check the cups behind the rear end near the drawbar if it has one. Those cups oil the final drives. They take 90wt like the transmission. There should be enough to cover the bottom of the cup in there or more. Need not be full though.
After the steering clutch is washed out adjust as needed. The main clutch should always be pulled back and a crisp snap to the lever when engaged. It should never ever be left running with the lever ahead for any length of time as it wears the throw out bearing. Put it in neutral with the clutch lever back or engaged anytime it sets running.
We tie out steering clutch levers back with twine over the back of the seat to the drawbar. This keeps them from sticking from oil seepage from the final drives. By the way ours is a 30's model so very similar to yours. S/N 4G8

The bolts you pulled out of the bottom are not the brake adjuster bolts,those bolts are the brake band stabilizer bolts,they carry the weight of the brake band to keep it from touching the drum,nip it up and back off two full turns and tighten the jam nut,the brake adjuster up top,adjust the steering clutches first then the brakes,if you got oil on the bands the best way to clean it off is with a hot pressure washer,use a good TFR detergent to get rid of the oil and curd and then give it a good rinse, good luck.
AJ

Thanks guys I will give that a try an post back once i get all the fluids changed. Guy i bought it from used it for his excavation business as a backup an at the farm. Only reason he parked it was the throw out bearing was bad and didnt want 2 deal with it. He stuck alot of money in it before the bearing went...rebuilt the undercarriage with sprockets.

Been having trouble finding filters for the D4. But finally got the right ones coming now. While I was waiting figured I'd change the other oils starting with the final drives. Question is is that big plug on bottom of tractor by the drain plug for the oil in the final drive just the drain plug for the brake chamber? I pulled it an 3 gallons of water came out...no oil.

(reply to post at 15:24:50 07/28/19)

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The drain plug under stering cluch housing is for drain stering cluch and brake when have water in the final drive drain plug is in bottom final drive side inspection plate.

The plugs Hector talks about are the ones I was telling you to check for the grime around the hole so all the junk can drain out. With that much water that is why your clutch will not release it is probably stuck to the shaft or mating plate.