450 C tracks

No doubt someone has tried it and maybe it worked for them. Just about anything is possible with enough money and time, but is it practical? My opinion is that doing that is not practical. The links may not accept weld correctly. How would the amount of build up be controlled for side (rail) to side (rail) and link to link? Welding the chain rails could lead to breakage. If the rail height is that bad, the pins and bushings are likely shot and that will make the chains come off easy as well. What is the internal wear of the pins and bushings? Along with that, the area the chains ride run on the front idlers is likely out of spec as well. Idlers can be welded up and turned back to spec easier. What is your rail height? How are the roller flanges? How are the bushings in the idlers, rollers, and their alignment? Are you out of adjustment travel?
 
Yup! Only sure cure. I sold the old set of track chains & sprockets for $500 & kept the cleats. Told the guy about'em but he only needed'em to run on level ground with very little turning. Last I heard he's still using'em.
 
If you already have new sprockets and idlers, replace the chains before those components are damaged. Trying to weld up the rails would do nothing for the internal wear (stretch) or external bushing wear that throws the pitch of the links off and will accelerate wear on your new sprockets.
 
Hi I grew up around iron all my life... from small equipment to very large. When we replaced the undercarriage we did it completely. Why would you replace the sprockets and idlers etc. and not the complete track system? It sounds like the machine has earned a new undercarriage... if the chain is still jumping. Nothing you do will solve ur problem until you replace the whole system. As a general rule when 1 item is worn out or needs turned everything else is ready for attention also. I?ve seen it and done it . Just my opinion.
 
Thanks to all, will look into chain or maybe someone will have a used set of tracks. No more than machine is run its hard to justify 4000 plus for a new set of tracks. Agaion much thanks.
 
I do not understand. If the chain is in alignment and is tight - why is it jumping off? If not in alignment - align it. If too loose - why> Are you saying the adjuster works properly but the chain is so worn you can no longer tighten it? I ask because I wonder how such a stretched chain can even work on new sprockets? The pitch would not match.

More info needed I guess. Cheapest fix might be to turn the pins and bushings IF not broken through and IF you can find someone to do it. We turned many at our Deere dealership. Turning can be a cheap fix that can buy you a lot of extra use time if on a tight budget and the bushings are not broken already. I turned the pins and bushings on my Oliver dozer 15 years ago and it still works great.

Even a worse fix on machines in real bad shape is to just cut a link out of the chain.

I also wonder - what make of chains do you have now? OEM Deere or aftermarket made in Italy? I ask because some of the OEM chains can be welded but many aftermarket chains cannot due to the different alloy.
 
Try the link below for a video clip from Cat WW11 era on how to reclaim parts including building up rails, rollers and rimming sprockets.

AJ
Reclaiming
 

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