Steering clutch

Jd440icd

New User
I have a John Deere 440icd crawler, I recently replaced the clutch plates on both sides and followed the service manual for all of the specifications, and adjusted the throwout bearing according to the manual, I put everything back together and now when I drive it, it still will not turn it goes good back and forth and for some reason will turn some when pushed against a stump, is there something that I am missing or any suggestions would be very helpful.
 
When traveling forward, if you pull back on both steering levers at the same time does the crawler stop without lugging the engine down?

When traveling forward, if you step on the foot brake does the engine lug down/stall?
 
It sounds like something is assembled wrong and/or the adjustments are off, on both sides. When you pull back on the steering levers while traveling the steering clutches should disengage and the crawler stop. If you step on the foot brake it should apply both brakes and should lug or stall the engine if the engine clutch or steering clutches are not disengaged.

See if these old adjustment instructions I have match what is in your manual. If not give them a try.

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Use a good light and watch the cams that move the throwout bearing carriers, while the levers are being pulled. Do the cams rotate and move the throw out bearings against the pressure plate fingers as the levers are pulled? Were the inserts and balls in the quills free and in good condition when you assembled it? Springs in place to return the cam to its resting position? Just some things to look at.
 
Yes all seemed to be working really good and adjustments we're just
as the manual said and your notes, only time I could get it to steer a
little was when I had resistance against it like a stump
 
Do you know what the stack height of my 440icd should be I have 8
steels and 8 compositions I never got a measurement for them could
that be my issue?
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:01 07/07/19) Do you know what the stack height of my 440icd should be I have 8
steels and 8 compositions I never got a measurement for them could
that be my issue?

That could be the issue or you could have too many discs in it.

The 420/430 used the same discs. The 420/430 service manual gives the steel plates as .090 to .096" and the clutch composite facings are shown as .145 to .151 inch.

Depending on serial number of the 440IC/440ICD crawlers 7 composite and 6 steel, or 8 and 8 were used. This shows in the 440IC JD online catalog and a hard copy I have. The serial number split is 455632 and prior which used 7 and 6, S/N 455633 and after, used 8 and 8. Where does your serial number fall?
 
were all the internal and external splines the discs mate to in the drum and drive shaft smooth, or did they have notches worn in them from the old discs. Sometimes new discs will hang in those old notches.

As the levers are pulled do you feel resistance from the pressure plate which increases as the brake engages?
 
I didn't notice any notches or anything like that, yes I feel good
resistance it just won't disengage for some reason on either side
 
To review:

Yours takes 8 of each disc by the serial number (it is after s/n 455633?) and what came out of it for discs when you tore it down. People have been known to stick an extra disc or two in to save replacing an worn out pack.

You set the fingers on the pressure plates on the assembled clutches by the service bulletin using the JD7 gauge. Did you "exercise" the fingers as called for?

You feel resistance when you pull both levers back at the same time but the tracks keep driving. Do the levers pull way back towards you or stop mid-way?

You have watched the throwout bearing press the fingers in on the pressure plate as the levers are pulled. How far do they move the fingers?

If you put the blade against a stump, pull both levers back, and let the engine clutch out; do the tracks drive/spin or do the steering clutches slip so the tracks don't drive?

If you step on the foot brake pedal, without pulling the levers, while moving the engine doesn't lug down.

It is sounding like something in the linkage is not right or the clutch packs are too thick. Have you talked to the vendor where you got your parts to see if they have any ideas or might have had this happen before?
 
If you take it apart stack the metal and fibers up and
measure them and they have to be what the book
says you have to add them up the book doesn?t
show the total but it should still bog down when you
hit the brakes make sure the break didn?t slip off on
reassembly you have to look close it would at the
bottom
 
Yes my serial number is 456829, yes I used the gauge I didn't
exercise the fingers...the levers pull back pretty far....yes I watch
them move the fingers a decent amount....if I am against a stump it
will dig in good and spin out and when I pull the levers back they will
both disengage and work both sides pretty well but as soon as I don't
have Resistance when I'm not against a stump it won't disengage
anymore, I drove it again today and yes it does lug the engine down
when I push on the brake.....I got them from steeringclutch.com no I
haven't contacted them at all
 
The clutches are disengaging if you are against a stump when you pull the levers, since it doesn't try to drive. Depending on the terrain and resistance disengaging a clutch alone may not turn the crawler, especially if the new clutches are dragging a bit. It sounds like the brakes might not be tight enough. Did you replace the brake bands? If you did and the drums were scored, the brakes might not be seated to them yet.

I would try setting the steering levers at the minimum free play and tighten up on the brakes a bit, then try it to see what that does for it.

You should talk to the vendor so they are aware of the problem you are having as they might have something else to have you check.
 

First thing is you would have to confirm the discs all are within spec. If not that would be an issue for discussion with the vendor.
 
I had to sand some down once not fun or you can buy new ones I think Lavoy has the right thickness
 
Dry clutches and brakes can't have grease or oil on them. Even brake cleaner and baking them won't completely decontaminate them.

If the drums were rough you can get them turned, or ground, then get oversize (thicker) linings, but you say your drums looked good. Did you check diameter to see if they were close to spec? If they were turned in the past, you might need over size linings.

Did you replace all the seals around the steering clutch compartment when you replaced the steering clutches? You don't want oil and grease getting to the new ones.
 

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