JD Seller, 410B question

Phil 25

Member
I wonder if you would check me on this item...1985 410B TBL: Looked at the JD parts site and it looks like to remove the injector pump, I remove a 2 or 3 inch? plate of front side of the pump mount, unscrew a nut and by removing the two mounting nuts at the pump front, side it rearwards off the studs and out of the drive gear?
First put the flywheel locator pin in place for # 1 cyl at TDC, ensure alignment marks are located and known at the pump mount flange, and the drive gear teeth are marked/aligned, the pump shaft has a keyway to fit the drive gear?
No power to move/dig and surges at full speed in neutral, 2000rpm and up is slow to gain, filter and injectors are new, lift pump steady flow, and starts easy when hot, local shop says gov section needs a rebuild, so off it goes.
tks
 
Not JD, but familiar with most injection pumps. While the late Stanadyne pumps must be removed with the drive shaft in place as the shaft is held in the pump by a snap ring, I think yours is old enough it can be removed with the shaft staying in the engine. First align the pump timing marks under the two screw side cover, for timing check they should align at TDC. Remove all lines and switch wire on top, remove the hardware and pull pump from the engine off the drive shaft. A good way to verify it needs service, loosen the timing cover screw while running. If engine speeds up with the fuel leaking out, but slows down/dies with the cover tight, that confirms it needs repair.
 
Afternoon: I knew you were around, but i had just read a note from JD Seller and his name stuck with me, and yes your reply was helpful and the pump is in the box waiting for pickup tomorrow. Slacked off the timing plate and speed went up, so is it because the pump is worn, and has internal pressure working against the head pressure going to the injectors?
Removal was as you said also, I left the pump input shaft in the machine,, new seals come with the pump repairs, so all is good.
Tks for your help.
 
The pump has two opposing plungers in the rotor, charging pressure pushes them apart when the inlet ports align, cam ring shoes/rollers force them toward each other during the injection cycle. Charging pressure range depends on speed, 20 to 80 PSI is average. Since the plungers "float", if the housing pressure creeps up to equal charging pressure, they stop moving out when they should during charging. Engine looses power, then shuts down. Just repaired an AC 210 pump for the same issue..
 
Clear as mud....:)
Got me curious now if it"s safe to assume the same test results would apply to all standyne pumps?
or any injector pump like CAV, Rosa, etc?
will drop a note when it comes back and how it works.
tks
 

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