Case 480ck gas engine governor not holding load

Engine won't hold a load.

Model G148B
Serial# 2651351

I have ordered a new set of springs for the governor but I don't think this will solve it. Is anyone familiar with this governor setup?

ok it wont let me post a link to the case schematic

Above part #4 in the link above there appears to be a fill hole (sort of a set screw that comes out to possibly fill with oil?) but I removed mine and there wasn't any fluid/oil in there. I also ordered the ball bearing (part #18) but to get that I think I have to take off the timing cover - which is currently holding my project up.

One of the other 480ck threads in here was someone trying to remove the hydraulic pump which is what I also need to do to access the governor assembly. Removing the cover doesn't sound easy or fun.

I thought I read somewhere else that there is a piece of plastic in this gov assembly that might have cracked. I put a scope in there and didn't see any plastic or bits but who knows.

When I purchased the tractor it ran ok but I replaced valves, had carb rebuilt, generator, etc. and now it just wont hold a load. Previous owner had a length of rope attached to the gov control arm (part# 43) that I never used but makes me wonder.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

I also have the service manual for this machine if anyone is interested. $300 from Case

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/casece/light-equipment/loader-backhoes/naes49loa281constructionking/case-construction-king-wheel-tractor/no-description/governor-and-timing-gear-cover-148b-spark-ignition-engine/cn/83E6C076-8FBF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/A8CF6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

This post was edited by jlw83 on 10/04/2022 at 11:34 am.

If the engine is reaching specified ''high idle speed'' and is not overspeeding the governor is doing at least half of it's job.

It would help if you could go into a little more detail as to what ''not holding load'' means.

Could be a sticking linkage between the carb and governor, or a fuel flow or late timing issue if it's simply ''falling on it's face'' and not developing rated HP.

Sorry and thanks.

The engine runs at idle just fine but when I give it throttle it will not hold at a high rpm - bogs down and dies. If I attempt to raise the bucket at idle the engine bogs down and dies also.

Hello JLW welcome to YT! With the tractor off open
the throttle about half open. Hopefully you know which
direction the rod hooked to the carb moves to idle the
engine. This direction should make it rest against the
idle set screw. Move the rod by hand the opposite
direction and make note of the distance it can travel.
Now start the tractor and raise the throttle to open half
way open. Now hopefully you can position yourself to
be able to see that rod and operate the hydraulic lever
to raise the bucket. When then hydraulic lever is
moved and the engine slows does that rod move as
much as you moved it with the engine off? It should. If
it does not you have verified the governor has a
problem. If it does move it the same distance you likely
have a problem with the carburetor or you are not
getting enough fuel flow to the carburetor. Do you
have the high speed needle number 14 in the carb
diagrams set to the proper initial setting? Your manual
should tell you what that is. I would guess screwed all
the way in seated lightly the backed out 3 turns would
be in the ballpark.If the machine set very long crud
could be coming loose in side the fuel line and
messing up your new carb. Is the sediment bowl under
the tank clean? Is there a screen in the top of it? There
should be that is actually the gas filter. With the
sediment glass off when you open the valve does it
have a good ..pee.. stream? Probably before you get
into all this you should open the drain petcock on the
carb and catch the fuel in a clear container. Does it
look clean and does it flow a continuous ..pee.. stream
there? If should be a steady flow and not slow down to
a dribble.

Hello JLW welcome to YT!

[color=red:addb5bbb33]Thank you Used Red MN! I've been a long time lurker reading what I can when I can. You guys rock and I appreciate the help.[/color:addb5bbb33]

With the tractor off open the throttle about half open. Hopefully you know which direction the rod hooked to the carb moves to idle the engine. This direction should make it rest against the
idle set screw. Move the rod by hand the opposite direction and make note of the distance it can travel. Now start the tractor and raise the throttle to open half way open. Now hopefully you can position yourself to be able to see that rod and operate the hydraulic lever to raise the bucket. When then hydraulic lever is
moved and the engine slows does that rod move as much as you moved it with the engine off? It should. If
it does not you have verified the governor has a
problem. If it does move it the same distance you likely
have a problem with the carburetor or you are not
getting enough fuel flow to the carburetor.

[color=red:addb5bbb33]I've decided against removing the timing cover at this time as it requires removing the hydraulic pump lines which look like a bear to get out. This will be the first thing I try once I reassemble everything to get it running. [/color:addb5bbb33]

[color=red:addb5bbb33]One question: [/color:addb5bbb33]"Move the rod by hand the opposite direction and make note of the distance it can travel.[color=blue:addb5bbb33] Now start the tractor and raise the throttle to open half way open[/color:addb5bbb33]. Now hopefully you can position yourself to be able to see that rod and operate the hydraulic lever to raise the bucket. "

[color=red:addb5bbb33]Can I do this from the throttle lever on the dash or should I do this by hand near the carb (bypassing the governor linkages)?[/color:addb5bbb33]

Do you have the high speed needle number 14 in the carb
diagrams set to the proper initial setting? Your manual
should tell you what that is. I would guess screwed all
the way in seated lightly the backed out 3 turns would
be in the ballpark.

[color=red:addb5bbb33]I will verify this also once I give it a test run. Very close guess - manual reads approximately 2 turns open. [/color:addb5bbb33]

If the machine set very long crud
could be coming loose in side the fuel line and
messing up your new carb. Is the sediment bowl under
the tank clean? Is there a screen in the top of it? There
should be that is actually the gas filter. With the
sediment glass off when you open the valve does it
have a good ..pee.. stream? Probably before you get
into all this you should open the drain petcock on the
carb and catch the fuel in a clear container. Does it
look clean and does it flow a continuous ..pee.. stream
there? If should be a steady flow and not slow down to
a dribble.

[color=red:addb5bbb33]I attempted to rebuild the carb with a kit and still had issues. So I sent it to a family member in Altamont, IL to have it professionally rebuilt. Still had the same issues as before.

I remember have difficulty figuring out how to set the 1/4" gap on the float in the carb but haven't opened the carb up after getting it back to check. It should be squeaky clean in there and even before both 'rebuilds' the carb would leak like a race horse.

Thank you for your advice - I will try them soon.

I am not sure I can share the manual here - sorry Mods - but it is worth a shot. Might help someone down the road. [/color:addb5bbb33]


//drive.google.com/file/d/10MJRww44agptiQa-zngkww3JoZXlZ8dg/view?usp=sharing

When the tractor is running you are setting the
operators throttle on the dash at half throttle and then
observing the response as the engine is loaded with
the hydraulics. It should move the rod on the carb to
open the throttle to the direction that is away from idle
..as in stepping on the accelerator in a car. The engine
should respond by holding the rpm. Are you sure the
venturi number 20 in the attached link got reinstalled?
I would think a ..professional rebuilder.. would have
made sure it was there and installed correctly.
Carb diagram