480CK Hyd. Pump Removal Help

John Saeli

Well-known Member
Simply wanted to change the Fan Belt on the 480CK Gas, but as usual, my luck, I cannot get the crank driven hyd. pump out. I assume the spline shaft is seized on both ends. I sprayed penetrant on the shaft, jarred it both ways, but it hasn't budged. Any advice?
 
John, all I have for you is general tricks for rusted spline joints, as I'm not familiar with your exact machine. IF you have room, drill a series of small holes near the middle of the outer sleeve, just deep enough to hit the inner shaft, 3 or 4, stagger them so you don't create a tear point, spray penetrant (PBlaster?) in them and force in further with compressed air. Get a Neanderthal pickle fork, not one that fits an air chisel, apply steady hand pressure with that. Then rattle its cage from the side with the air chisel, you'll see rust bleeding or puffing out. Turn the motor over 1/4 turn or so, rinse and repeat (with penetrant naturally). Started doing that with VW brake drums as a kid, hated the ones that came from your neck of the woods where they salt the roads. The pickle fork part is more recent, though, no room for a pickle fork behind a brake drum. But I can just get one in behind an armature from an electric golf cart motor, so far it's 100%.
 
From what I remember when I replaced the pump on my 580CK, the spline shaft rests in a 4-bolt flange with rubber mount bushings. I don't remember if there is room to remove the bolts from the flange to crank pulley with the pump still attached.
 
Thanks for the tips, but there is no room to get a "hands on" in there. Talked w/ Mel last nite who suggested using a blunt air chisel on the coupling and with the combination of vibration & penetrant, the shaft should loosen up. The closest one can get to it, without removing the radiator is about 14", so I will cob up something.
 
Perhaps one of those air-chisel attachments that come with wrenches for removing threaded fan clutches on newer cars? They have a long punch designed to hit that wrench way down in/under the fan shroud. I'm very glad I quit working on cars 20 years ago!
 
John,

This is an idea that have. I will also preface this with the fact that have never seen a 480CK.

Would it be possible to drill and tap (with 1/8" pipe threads) near where the ends of the shafts are (near the center??) on the coupling and then thread a grease zerk into it and then use a grease gun to press the pump out of the coupling? You might need to get a new coupling but it would be apart.

Our local dealership used a similar technique to remove the spindle from my buddy's disk one year.

Just a thought and no guarantee that it would work.

Eli
 
Eli: The procedure you describe is not an option. Last nite the pump pulled off the spline shaft, which is not what I wanted.
 

John,

Any updates here? I am having governor issues with my 480ck and just posted a short thread asking for any ideas.

In order to get to the gov assembly I have to remove the timing cover which requires removing the hydraulic pump - or so I think - and I tinkered with it for a while a few months ago but didn't get very far.

Getting ready for winter projects and just wondering how much fun you had after the pump came off the spindle. :D

Thanks
 

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