Roosa Master pump

Bret4207

Well-known Member
Now that I've been straightened out on the ID of my 530 junkyard tractor pump, and after watching a few videos on the DB and it's workings, I felt brave enough to take the top cover off. I think I see part of the problem! Looks l'm going to learn how to clean and reseal an injection pump. Hopefully it won't require professional help!
mvphoto79520.jpg
 

And after spending another couple of hours reading about horror stories...maybe I'll just send it out to a pro! :shock: The engine still needs a rebuild and I haven't even gotten the new/used front end welded up yet, so it's not like there's a hurry. I dunno, anyone ever do a Roosa Master at home?
 

Yup, it moves and the metering rod underneath seems to move too. That gunk might be the ring gasket thing that is infamous for deteriorating and clogging things up. That's why I'm thinking about sending it out. That's apparently a relatively simple pump, but I'm not sure it's something I should attempt. From what I read there is a screw that requires a special bit and bushing and breaks easy. Not like this is a rush job since the engine needs help bad! She slobbers like a St Bernard at a church picnic!
 
That definitely is the remnants of the
governor ring. They are a simple pump to
reseal. A special tool is helpful to
remove the advance stud if used, some
pumps don't use the screw in stud. Pay
attention to the arrow direction on the
cam ring as well as the c or cc marked on
the vane pump on top.
My theory on these pumps is if they are
running and starting ok before you take
them apart they will be fine after you
reseal them. I've probably done close to a
hundred of them and have never had and
issue.
Not saying it wouldn't be marginally
better to have everything recalibrated by
a pump shop. But it is an area that you
can save some $$$ if you think you can do
the job yourself
 
(quoted from post at 08:42:49 08/02/21) That definitely is the remnants of the
governor ring. They are a simple pump to
reseal. A special tool is helpful to
remove the advance stud if used, some
pumps don't use the screw in stud. Pay
attention to the arrow direction on the
cam ring as well as the c or cc marked on
the vane pump on top.
My theory on these pumps is if they are
running and starting ok before you take
them apart they will be fine after you
reseal them. I've probably done close to a
hundred of them and have never had and
issue.
Not saying it wouldn't be marginally
better to have everything recalibrated by
a pump shop. But it is an area that you
can save some $$$ if you think you can do
the job yourself

Thanks for the thoughts EP. I watched a video from Area Diesel Service last night doing a Stanadyne Roosa Master for a 1650 Ollie. I can see how experience would be a big benefit, to say nothing of the test bench! I also found a gentleman in SC over on the Heavy Equipment forum that is retired from the injection business that does these at home now. May contact him as he's much less $$ than going to a big shop. Suppose I ought to think about the injectors too!
 
GM used to use those types of pumps on there Olds 350 diesel cars. I have done them years ago, and worked on some tractors with
them. I recommend putting the 29111 solid cage in place of the flex ring. It's available on eBay for $78.30. There aren't that many
pieces inside the pump to take it apart, but I would recommend buying the #15499 bristol tool for the bottom cam stud. I could talk
to you about it, would be faster than typing.
 

Thanks Roger, I have a manual coming to get a better idea. Even the cheaper guy is talking $700.00, so I have to to mull it over. It's a $200.00 out of the junkyard tractor. Yes, when it's done it'll be a great rig, but getting there is a challenge.
 
(quoted from post at 22:16:05 08/02/21) Most pumps like yours I can repair/test and return in the 350-450 buck range.

Thanks DT, I meant no slight to you by not mentioning you, I just have a lot running through my old head! I will be in contact eventually.

BTW- I'm told Stanadyne bumped up most of their parts prices about 60% last spring. Is that true?
 

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