VAO Transmission now stuck.

CaseyCub

Member
Okay, next problem with the VAO that wouldn't start, then had to rebuild the hydraulic pump, and then the engine stuck:
The engine freed up by removing the starter. Turns over great now, but only when the clutch is in. If it's not, it won't budge. So, I presume I'm stuck in a gear. Probably second, because that's where it was when it had the first problem. The shift lever is loose, and though it acts like it's in neutral and going in and out of gear, it's got a lot of play in it, which the other tractor does not have at all. I pulled the cover off when I was trying to get the engine freed up, and there is thick black oil coating EVERYTHING. If I can get the forks and such that are attached to the shift lever and cover plate cleaned up enough, what should I look for to solve this? With the cover off, what SHOULD the gears and forks look like in true neutral? I can try to get pictures, but I'm dependent on daylight and someone else with a camera phone, so if anyone is willing to take their cover plate off and give me a visual, I'd appreciate it!
 
This pic is 1953 VAC, I think it is the same shift pattern as VAO but not sure, someone here can check that for you. I doubt you can tell anything from this top view pic. Check the shift collars slide freely. With the shifter in neutral hold the forks above the collars, slide the collars to match. You could be stuck in 2 gears at once, worn interlock plugs and/or detent mesh ball/rail notch will cause that. Reverse collar is the one that tends to end up outside the fork, when lowering the cover tilt it so it tends to engage reverse collar first to hold it in place as your further lower the cover. It is common for brakes to lock up. Jack up one wheel at a time, see if you can turn it with engine clutch disengaged, lots of leverage here.

Joe
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You might check with the cover off that the bottom end of the shifter is where it's supposed to be in the shift fork notches. On the VAI I bought about a year ago the shifter had slipped out where it would not manipulate the forks properly. Good luck.

Lee
 
When you center the gears so they are not in gear, 3rd gear has an oil slinger gear that will still be meshed in neutral, 4th gear is the front gear on the top shaft, third is on the same sliding gear, on the bottom shaft the thin gear that stays mated in neutral should rotate freely when the sliding gear is moved to the 4th gear position. on rare occasion I have seen the thin gear seize fast to the bottom shaft 3rd gear and the transmission will drive at 3rd gear speed in neutral, as before place the 4th gear front into full mesh then see if the thin gear on the front of 3rd gear bottom shaft will rotate freely, if that is the problem the fork positions will be correct in neutral and still drive. If it just stalls whenever you let the clutch out there is another problem but if it drives in 3rd gear speed suspect the oil slinger. with the clutch held down the top shaft should rotate freely when the gears are out of mesh unless the slinger is seized to the bottom gear.
 
Thank you so much for the visual of the gears. That is exactly what I needed. It seems like mine jumped a fork. The 1&3 collar and gear was way back to the back when I pulled the cover. We got the gear to stay in the middle with a long screwdriver while I repositioned the forks by hand and slid it gently back into place. Took a couple tries, but now it turns over without the clutch being pushed in!
 

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