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Case D

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sparkiefarmer

Member
Have an 1951 Case D that is low on power. Have had the mag and head redone (head had a bent valve and was BADLY worn), helped but still not what it should be. I came to the conclusion that it needs an engine rebuild. Much to my surprise parts are no longer available. I did track down a kit, but it's $2500! I am kind of used to high priced parts, but that seems completely ridiculous considering a fully restored D brings about that at auction lately.
My question, would just a set of rings wake this old girl up? Or does anyone know where I can buy a kit for less?
I would really like to be able to put it to work for a day or 2 a year; but am thinking I may have to settle for owning an ornament.
 
There are several sources that you may want to check on as far as parts go. Rusty Acres Don Livingston Austin Mn. 507-433-0073 Or Saeli Equip. Lake Geneva NY. 315-585-9826. Are you wanting to keep her or flip her. I am in the throws of a 53 DC-4, CM
 
Have you done a compression check on your engine? If the head has been done, a compression check would tell the condition of the rings. If the engine was stuck the rings could be seized to the pistons.
 
Thanks for the numbers. I am going to keep this tractor, my grandfather had one that was just a few build numbers away from it.
 
When you had the head off, did you visually inspect the liners? If they look good and don't have a massive ridge at the top, you could probably get away with just doing rings.
 
145 psi is perfect on a 300 148g, not sure on a D, but should be nearly the same. I have a 300 with pretty much 85 psi across the cylinders and it hard to start but when warm does ok. Power is noticeably reduced.
 
I don't think those engines have much in common, the D has a 259.5 CI, and it turns slow, 1200rpm is wide open, old old design, still has babbit bearings.
I would think however that if 85 is getting near the end for the 300 that would be the same for the D.
 
Specs from service manual
cvphoto79081.jpg
 
I assume low on power means less power than it use to have. If the governor gets gummed up and sluggish, it will become slower to open the butterfly and the power will be lower. The amount of blow-by under load is a good indicator of the condition of the compression rings. Does it smoke and use more oil? As we know the oil ring tends to controls that.
 
blow by isn't bad, haven't ran it enough to tell if its burning oil really, but it's not drastic if it is.
It struggles to get moving in 4th gear, and runs out of power REALLY fast if you go up a hill. Barely pulls a 2 x 14" plow in 2nd, light soil.
 
I have had several D series tractors. All but 1 had the 4 inch bore Al pistons and high compression heads (5505).

One DC, in very good condition, had the original equipment cast iron 3-7/8 pistons and low compression head. It seemed low on power even when compared to my dads old C Case that had 4 inch Al pistons and a low compression head. Two bottoms plow in 2nd gear was a load for this DC. I never had any experience climbing hills with this DC. Compared to my other D series, this one was a wimp.

One way I made sure the butterfly was opening correctly, I connected a piano wise the left end of the governor arm and ran it back the where I could operate the butterfly with my left hand. I just made sure the wire could not get caught on anything and keep the butterfly from closing.

All my D series governors were sluggish compared to my brothers WD Allis governor.
 
Interesting. This D has the 3 7/8" cast pistons. My grandfather bought one new and Dad grew up on it. They used to pull 3 x12" in clay 2nd gear dad said one sandy field they could run in 3rd, and they also used to pull 6 sections of diamond tooth harrows in 4th gear, and that's why i think mine is gutless. I will have to try the piano wire trick and see what happens.
 
I have a 51 DC but mine has 4 1/16 bore and a 5505 head, it has power to spare. I regularly pull a 14' disk in clay soil without a problem. The governor on mine must have eyes on it because it opens quickly, especially while running a sawmill edger. As soon as the blade touches a board it opens and powers through it easily
 

How long has your D set unused? Things might improve if it was run hard for awhile. Another thing you could try is warm it up and dump the oil. Add new oil plus a can a seafoam to the crankcase. Run it at half throttle for three hours. Dump the oil again and put in new oil. The seafoam should help clean everything inside the engine. Including the pistons and rings. If an engine sits too long the rings can get stuck in the ring grooves from years of carbon/sludge build up. The seafoam will clean up the gunk that is in the engine.
 
Don't know the history of the tractor. I've had it 10 years now, it's maybe ran 20 hours in that time. If I had to guess I'd say the guy I bought it from got it from a fence row and painted it all up pretty. Found out in short order that everything he told me was a lie.
 
Something is definitely not right with your D. As others have mentioned, the compression is way too low. Either the rings are stuck or wore out. Also, the governor may be broken or worn badly. Another possibility is the air cleaner assembly may be plugged with dirt, debris, mouse nest, etc. Don
 
Nothing has been said about how the timing is set. You might try advancing the timing a little at a time up to the point that it kicks back when being started. Set it according to what you learn.
 
Did all the valves get ground? I remember my uncle had a F20 farmall with a hand crank. He never noticed it loosing compression when cranking and it started and idled normal but it became gutless without miss firing. I remember him being dumbfounded for a long time. Finally he ground the valves and then it ran and pulled normal again. That situation was always a mystery to me.
 
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