Re: Looking for 1958 CASE 400 PTO clutch replace/repair

John Saeli

Well-known Member
That appears to be the earlier PTO without the brake. There are 2 lock pins. 1 pin is always engaged and 1 not. Be sure you are disengaging the "locked in" pin. Once the locked in pin is truly disengaged, somehow hold everything still and turn the shaft counterclockwise. Have someone do it w/ a pipe wrench if necessary. We have everything here in stock to rebuild your clutch pack, including gaskets if necessary. Can you post a picture of that front mounted pump?
 
This is an over-center clutch, they are all pretty much the same. What mEl is telling you is that there are 2 adjustment locking pins. Note that #1 pin is in further than the #2 pin so #1 pin is in an adjustment plate slot locking the adjustment, #2 pin is on the adjustment plate between 2 slots. When you pull #1 pin and turn the shaft the #2 pin will drop into an adjustment plate slot and #1 pin will now be on the plate between 2 slots.

The adjustment plate is just that, a plate with slots around the outer periphery. The one in the pic has 18 slots so one adjust is 1/2 between 2 slots or 10 degrees movement. The adjustment tension is not linear, so you need to check pull after each 1/2 slot adjustment.

Joe

cvphoto55528.jpg
 

John,

Here are a couple of pictures of the front mounted hydraulic pump.
mvphoto61626.jpg


mvphoto61627.jpg


mvphoto61628.jpg


I added a picture of the ID tag on the pump in case you were wondering.
 

Joe,
The picture you posted looks exactly like what I expect it to be by looking at my service and parts manuals.

Yes, there are two pins in mine. One is sticking out further than the other. Prying out on the short one, I could get it to pull out as far as the other.

I was unable to prevent the clutch assembly from rotating while I held the pin out and turned the PTO spline by hand. I thought maybe the forked tool would somehow help me keep the clutch from turning while it holds the pin out. Then I would have been able to put a tool onto the splines to provide more turning force.

Another thing that isn't clear to me ... in the service manual it calls for 50 lbs force to get the clutch release mechanism to go over-center and engage. Is that 50 lbs pull as measured by pulling on the clutch release collar directly ? I see the fishing scale in your pic. Or is it supposed to be 50 lbs pull at the end of the hand operated lever on top of the gear box ?
 
(quoted from post at 14:36:07 09/11/20)
Joe,
The picture you posted looks exactly like what I expect it to be by looking at my service and parts manuals.

Yes, there are two pins in mine. One is sticking out further than the other. Prying out on the short one, I could get it to pull out as far as the other.

I was unable to prevent the clutch assembly from rotating while I held the pin out and turned the PTO spline by hand. I thought maybe the forked tool would somehow help me keep the clutch from turning while it holds the pin out. Then I would have been able to put a tool onto the splines to provide more turning force.

Another thing that isn't clear to me ... in the service manual it calls for 50 lbs force to get the clutch release mechanism to go over-center and engage. Is that 50 lbs pull as measured by pulling on the clutch release collar directly ? I see the fishing scale in your pic. Or is it supposed to be 50 lbs pull at the end of the hand operated lever on top of the gear box ?

Your discs may be warped from slippage overheating so they are not completely disengaged. Instructions I have seen state to check the engagement over center snap force in the engaged direction with the control lever. That is how I do it.

Joe
 
The clutch goes over center when engaged. There is no clutch bearing to wear out. The only way you can get it to tight is if you
cannot pull it over center. Tighten till you need 50# pull on the end of the lever. If you run it more loose than that it will
slip and warp the clutch parts. The only reason your clutch is not warped and SHOT is that it was so loose that it did not build
up heat when it was slipping. You are very lucky!
 
If it has the clutch brake the rod is how that is adjusted. It
should just get tight enough to stop the pto when latched
under the plate. If you're trying to get it to latch behind the
plate that is wrong. When engaged the levee should pull back
til over centered is all, they do nit latch while engaged.
 

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