Case 310B Clutch Pedal Rod

aDave

New User
Hi there,

I am looking to find a replacement clutch pedal rod for our 1956 Case 310B. If anyone has a good source, I'd love to hear from you. I've got calls into a couple different part houses, so I'm hoping something turns up.

Absent finding a replacement (part G10748) one potential option is trying to fabricate a new one. Unfortunately, I don't know the specs for the part (length, rod thickness, length of 90 degree ends). If anyone has the ability to provide those numbers that would be greatly appreciated.

I realize that welding our current (broken) part could be an option, but it appears that a small segment may have broken out, so I'd still be unsure of the length.

I apologize for a post with little detail. I'm having a hard time getting past YT's filters - they doesn't like some of the words I'm using.

Thanks in advance.
 
These are the two most likely sources for something like that I can think of, both these guys have reasonable prices and are known, good
sellers on this forum.
Don Livingston in MN (507) 433-0073 phone AM best. Jean Claude Marleau L'Orignal, Ontario [email protected] 613-632-9445.

Are you aware that you will need to split the tractor to install a replacement clutch rod.
cvphoto49069.jpg


cvphoto49070.jpg


Personal I would try to restore the existing rod if serviceable on both existing ends. That means that the spring and flat washer are still on
the rod in the bell housing and you can pull that end and feel the spring tension and when the release yoke contact the back of the throw out
bearing.

The clutch rod is 5/16" dia and ballpark around 17" long not counting the adjusting yoke at the pivot. This is how you adjust the clutch rod
length on the 300B series tractors. There is a lot of slop here and you have the adjustment yoke.
cvphoto49071.jpg


The way I would approach this is buy a 1/4" nipple or length of schedule 40 pipe and slide the ends of the rod gap into the pipe leaving
plenty of rod inside the pipe clamp the pipe ends down on the rod. With the adjustment yoke centered, adjust the clutch rod per the
instruction above. Marking and/or cutting the rod at the pipe ends you now know the length of replacement rod you need to weld in. Personally
if the pipe section doesn't cause any interference and it didn't look too red neck I would just weld it in place.

Anyway good luck with it.

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 21:07:16 06/30/20) These are the two most likely sources for something like that I can think of, both these guys have reasonable prices and are known, good
sellers on this forum.
Don Livingston in MN (507) 433-0073 phone AM best. Jean Claude Marleau L'Orignal, Ontario [email protected] 613-632-9445.

Are you aware that you will need to split the tractor to install a replacement clutch rod.

Hi Joe, thank you very much for the information. I'll be sure to reach out to those two gentlemen to see if they can help.

I appreciate the additional information about the clutch rod, but I'm actually looking for the clutch pedal rod which is a different part. I didn't mean to cause any confusion - I just went with the name that is in the Case service manual.

Since the clutch rod is 5/16", I'll go out on a limb and guess the clutch pedal rod is the same thickness. So, I'm 2/3rds of the way there with measurements.

The part I'm looking for in your black and white photo is the straight piece that is adjacent to, and just below, the return spring. On that drawing, the rod is not labeled.

I'm sorry I have to describe it to you, but there is something going on with photos when I try to post them. I get an error message that there are words or characters in my post where the system believes I am a bot or a spammer.

I have the drawing marked up, but I don't know what's going on. I can "preview" my post with the photos, but I can't "submit" my post without receiving the error message.

I'll keep trying.

In the meantime, thank you again for your assistance.
 
I think I found a way to add the photos from the classic view side of the house.

One photo is the part I'm looking for on the diagram that Joe sent, and the other is the actual part from another site. Hope these help to clarify.


cvphoto49081.jpg


cvphoto49082.png
 
I should have looked up your p/n before posting. Anyway no harm done. The part is generally referred to as a link but it is part of the clutch rod arrangement.

These are some of the tractor models that have that part in case you have to do a salvage yard hunt.
G10748 LINK Case parts 600B-SERIES, 630, 430CK, 470, 300B-SERIES, 320, 430, 400B-SERIES, 320B, 420B, 420BD, 530, 530CK, 300-SERIES, 500B-SERIES, 570 LINK

Your tractor is one of the models in the 300B series, 310B is a utility tractor that only built in 1958 & 1959. If the model/serial tag still exist post the serial nr so we know which year it was built as some parts change by serial nr. If the tag is missing post a pic of the steering wheel and I will be know the build year.

Don't assume that the part is 5/16", I will check in the AM and post back if it is other than 5/16".

The link is the Caseih parts catalog for 300B series tractors.

Joe

cvphoto49084.jpg

https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts search.html?csid fd380f4ccfdb0b22ed918425cf31e7ed&sl EN&currency epc::mr48962
 

Joe, thank you for all of the great info, and I really appreciate the time you're spending with this.

Serial number on the tractor is 60521660. I am looking at some notes in our service manual, and my wife had written down 310 as the model. Admittedly, I now realize I may have been wrong about the "B" designation as you pointed out. I guess old(er) age will do that some time.

I just looked on Tractordata, and maybe this is just a 310 utility tractor? It is a wheel tractor, it has a gasoline engine, and a round nose. It's definitely not squared off like a 310B, and the serial number is from 1956.

This morning, I got a call from a parts place, and I was told the part was located on a tractor they have. So, if all goes well, we'll be seeing the part in the mail in the not too distant future.

I also pulled our broken part this morning, so we will have something to go by for rod thickness for fabrication. The part that was on the tractor looks like it was fashioned (possibly out of the original rod), because one end looks nothing like the stock part.

In either event, you've offered some very helpful info thus far. I am not a mechanic by any stretch, and since I was not the original user/buyer of the tractor, this is a learning experience for me. The tractor has been in my wife's family for some 50 years, and it's still being used for work on their property.

That's about it for now. Now I just have to wait for the part to see if we got the right one. Thanks again.

Dave
 
The link is 5/16" dia. I have some heavy stuff stacked against the tractor can't good enough access to get an accurate length measurement.

I would bet Don L will have them, he has a big salvage yard in MN.

Joe
 
I also have a 1956 310 round nose sn 6052765. Yours should be pretty close to the time mine was built pending which digit you drop from 60521660 (only 7 digits in the tractor sn). There is also an engine sn stamped vertically into the block above the starter. The engine sn will be 3 digits + letter + 5 digits, mine is 110M03357. You sometime need the sn to order engine parts as 1956 was the 1st year for the G148 engine.

Joe
 
You guys have been great...thank you very much.

As of this morning, I had two parts places tell me they found the part, so I have them being shipped to me. Of course, the devil will be in the details when the part arrives. It'll be interesting to see if the part is OEM or if was modified simply to work on the tractors they were pulled from.

Jean Claude, with that in mind, I'll make note of what you have on hand. Should I (still) need the part, I'll drop you a line. Thank you for replying.

At this point, I hope (think) I'm good. I really do appreciate the input that has been shared with me thus far.

I realize that I might be one of "those guys" who come into the forum looking for information and not contributing further down the road. But...

My lack of contributions down the road should not be taken as a snub on the forum. Quite frankly, I don't have the knowledge to give anyone information, so I'll just be a sponge at this point.

Nevertheless, I'll update as I move through this small project, and I totally appreciate the help I've been given.

Best regards to all.

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 17:16:52 07/01/20) I also have a 1956 310 round nose sn 6052765. Yours should be pretty close to the time mine was built pending which digit you drop from 60521660 (only 7 digits in the tractor sn). There is also an engine sn stamped vertically into the block above the starter. The engine sn will be 3 digits + letter + 5 digits, mine is 110M03357. You sometime need the sn to order engine parts as 1956 was the 1st year for the G148 engine.

Joe
Again, thanks. At first I didn't realize what you meant about "dropping a number," but then I took a look at the serial number in our book again. Yep, a typo on my part.

Our s/n is 6052660.

Hopefully, we won't have to worry about engine parts soon, but it's nice to know how that engine s/n may help.
 
Ok you're good to go once you get the clutch rod link. Good luck with that little 310, one of the best tractors
ever.

Joe
 
Well, I thought I'd come back and provide a brief update:

After a small hiatus from dealing with the tractor, today we finally got a chance to install the replacement clutch pedal rod that we received. After a bit of tinkering and getting it installed, the wife hopped on the tractor to depress the clutch and test what we'd done. Upon doing so, "SNAP!" The just-installed rod broke in the exact same spot as the old one. Right at the 90 degree bend that goes into the linkage where the clutch rod ties in.

Fortunately, in my part search, I'd actually gotten two, so the second one was installed. I'll keep it short...things went well and the test drive of the tractor was fine.

So, at this point in time, it looks like things are okay...so far. Not having a back up part, I'll be contacting Jean Claude who let me know earlier in the thread that he had some.

Here's a photo of where the break was on our most recent rod. Was this a weak link on the tractor? The wife, who spends most of the time driving it hasn't noticed it being excessively hard to depress the clutch pedal. Or, is this just bad luck?

Thanks again.


mvphoto58510.jpg
 
I've had a 1959 311B & a 1956 310 for about the last 20 years, they both have that rod. The 310 spent most of its known life
doing loader work on a dairy farm, notably scooping manure in the barn an adjacent areas. They both have done a lot of loader
work since I have had them also putting a home site in a heavily wood 6 acres so the clutches got a workout. I have had to
replace worn down clutch friction disc on both, also replaced pressure plate & release bearing while they were split so they
clutch operating linkage has been worked. No signs of the rod fracture you have.

I have the linkage well adjusted as per that diagram I posted. I suggest you do the same if you haven't already done so.
Breakage like that would appear to be from a twist as the clutch pedal is pushed down, something to eyeball.

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 20:36:20 07/15/20)
I have the linkage well adjusted as per that diagram I posted. I suggest you do the same if you haven't already done so.
Breakage like that would appear to be from a twist as the clutch pedal is pushed down, something to eyeball.

Joe
Thanks Joe. We've roughly eyeballed the linkage, and it hangs somewhat the same as it is in the diagram. Free play is about 1 1/2".

I'll take a photo of that linkage piece on our tractor. It actually has a slight twist to it where the rod inserts, and I was left wondering if that is normal. I don't know how to describe it, so I'll grab a photo the next time I'm out there. Thanks again for your help.

Dave
 

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