(quoted from post at 23:56:27 07/01/20)
L, probably the best thing to do is get a # 8 JIC plug and raise the arms and plug off the line at the valve then remove the prop from under the arms and let it sit. A little weight on it wouldn't hurt.
(quoted from post at 16:32:41 07/03/20)
Joe, Mel,
I went out this morning to give it another try. Before I started to remove any parts, I started the tractor to watch what is going on with the spool and bellcrank. Believe it or not it was working better than the day before. I can raise the eagle hitch now and it will stay in place. But when I lower the hitch, then but the lever in the center position to stop, it will still slowly drift down. I'm going to call it good enough for now. At least it will be good enough to run a loader with, I hope. I want to that you for all your help. I learned a lot about the hydraulic control on this tractor.
(quoted from post at 18:15:18 07/03/20)(quoted from post at 16:32:41 07/03/20)
Joe, Mel,
I went out this morning to give it another try. Before I started to remove any parts, I started the tractor to watch what is going on with the spool and bellcrank. Believe it or not it was working better than the day before. I can raise the eagle hitch now and it will stay in place. But when I lower the hitch, then but the lever in the center position to stop, it will still slowly drift down. I'm going to call it good enough for now. At least it will be good enough to run a loader with, I hope. I want to that you for all your help. I learned a lot about the hydraulic control on this tractor.
From what you state here about lowering and moving the lever back to neutral, that indicates the control spool is not centering or it is leaking pump pressure up to the interlock moving the spool to the left unseating the ball check. That could be in the linkage or a leaking spool in the control valve.
The linkage length is adjustable at the yoke on the lever. A shot in the dark, maybe you need to adjust that due to the bell crank replacement.
Joe
(quoted from post at 22:32:05 07/03/20)
I couldn't make a decent video. But I did take some pictures.
I did a quick and found a seller for each lever but YT automatically deleted my response on this Modern View Forum but it posted on the Classic View Forum. While this thread is open, go to the top of this page and click on Classic View in the box will take you to this thread in Classic View.
Joe
(quoted from post at 23:09:12 07/04/20) I had to download Firefox and am trying to find my way around as I am getting a lot of sentence breaks in my posts so I have to return to the forum and delete the breaks, download the pics again, then send it to review see if it is worth posting. Chris is aware of the problem. It may be from a recent update to Edge. I am going to see if it happens here at Firefox.
You lost me here are you referring to the rock shaft and housing? "the worn hole where the eagle hitch crank goes through the casting. It's either the hole that's worn or the shaft. Either way it slops around enough that the lever has about six inches of play".
There is no neutral detent in the spool for the ball. The reason for removing the spring and ball is so the spring on the front under the cap can center the spool. The ball in detents is to hold the spool in position until the linkage is operated.
The EH is operated by hand or the quadrant lever. If you haven't already done so, take the quadrant rod off the EH lever and see if that makes any difference. If it does we can go through the steps to adjust that rod.
If nothing else we can remove the control valve ball and spring and see if the spool spring up front is strong enough to center the spool. The linkage is pretty heavy but with all the slop you have maybe it can put it in neutral.
Joe
(quoted from post at 01:49:22 07/05/20) I'll try to find the ball & spring description in a manual. I know I read it somewhere but my memory isn't so great on where that was.
Joe
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