1951 DC Case Brake

Grandpa's DC · Apr 27, 2020

Hey Guys,

New to the forum not to Case Tractors. My Grandpa bought the DC Case brand new in 1951 from a Dealership in Wisconsin. It was the first tractor I learned to drive nearly 40 years ago. Quick recap, the tractor stopped working about 30 years ago but I kept it in a shed for protection. Last year I was able to start working on it again and the tractor is running after 30 years. I"m in the process of restoring it and I have found a lot of great resources to get the parts I need and be able to do most of my own repairs.

The issue I ran into now, the brake was leaking, so I pulled it apart and found where it was leaking from. This leak is on the inside of the shaft. Please see picture below - Any ideas on how to fix this?

Thank you.
Mark

Grandpa's DC · Apr 27, 2020

rustred · Apr 27, 2020

need to pull those old seals out and replace them.

Grandpa's DC · Apr 27, 2020

Thank you, but the seal actually isn't leaking. There's a crack in the end of the shaft that the fluid is coming through. I'm thinking the shaft needs to be replaced not sure though.

rustred · Apr 27, 2020

I see now. I would get someone handy with brazing and do that. tip the tractor sideways as driving it on planks. pack the seal area with ice cubes in wet rags and go to it.
could do the devcon thing on it also, but if that don't work then ur toast.

Grandpa's DC · Apr 27, 2020

Thank you for the advice, I'm going to check into both of those options.

ShakerPrairie · Apr 27, 2020

That is a welch plug (freeze plug) in the end of the differential shaft.
Is that where the leak is?
If so it's an easy fix.

ShakerPrairie · Apr 27, 2020

Mark I'm going to post a link to the CaseIH parts for your DC.
I'm not sure if this will work.
If not then go to the CaseIH parts website and search for "D Series Tractor".
It's very helpful to look at the exploded views.

https://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64321

Grandpa's DC · Apr 28, 2020

Thank you for the information. The leak is right at the end of the shaft right inside. If I was to guess it looks like it froze and cracked it. It looks like you have to pull that whole shaft out and replace it to fix the problem. In reading what you wrote, do you know how that plug comes out to replace it?

Thank you,
Mark

ss55 · Apr 28, 2020

I would be very surprised if that crack actually ran down the center of the shaft far enough to reach the transmission oil. That looks more like a shallow casting or forging imperfection. The seals on the shaft would be where I would first look for the leak. When you have it apart you can check both the shaft and the seal.

The seal may have worn a groove into the shaft, a new seal and a Speedi-Sleeve would be a quick fix for that.

RonSa · Apr 28, 2020

The seals are not buried deep and therefore not hard to get at if they ever do start leaking. There is an old adage that probably applies here "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

Regarding the crack in the cover cap, there is no pressure to restrain, therefore a coating of Permatex (or equivalent) would very likely stop the oil leak. I would brush on some cleaner (like mineral spirits) and blow dry. Repeat a couple of time before applying the coating.

ShakerPrairie · Apr 28, 2020

The welch plug is made of basically heavy sheetmetal. You can drive a punch thru it then use the punch or similar pry bar to pry it out.
I looked at the CaseIH parts site and it says they discontinued that part. Same story/different day.
But it is just a welch plug/core plug/freeze plug. Whichever name that someone wants to call it.
It's probably a common size (I don't remember now) that you can get at an auto parts place.
You need to get the old plug out then measure the bore to see what size you need.
If you want to buy it without figuring out which size and chasing it down then do a search for external_link and call them (John Saeli on this forum).
I bought some of these from external_link and they were in either Case or CaseIH bags.
John may still have some??

Grandpa's DC · Apr 28, 2020

Thank you everyone, I can see there's no leak around the seals. It s truly running out of the end of the shaft where the crack is. What I don't understand is how the oil is making its way down the shaft. In the diagrams it looks like a solid shaft with a gear on the end of it that s inside the tractor. I will do more careful inspection but there must be a cavity inside the shaft that s allowing the oil to flow down to the end of it where it s coming our of the crack.

If I pull of those 4 bolts that hold the plate to the side of the housing, does that allow for that gear to be pulled out? That s also my concern, is this going to create a bigger issue pulling this out.

Thank you all -

RonSa · Apr 28, 2020

Here are a couple of cross sections. You say a 51 model which I think??? has both pedals on the right side. Earlier models had a pedal on each side. The earlier cross section is the one showing one disc.

Not real obvious but there is a solid bar keyed to the big gear in the middle. The ends of the solid bar extend just beyond the two bearings. Shown are the two final drive roller chain sprockets as part of the hollow tubes that extend far out and have a brake disc drive spline on their ends

HOW DOES THE OIL GET TO THE CRACK? Because of the differential action, there needs to be lube between the bar and the hollow tubes. The oil level is lower that the two hollow tubes containing the chain sprockets and also lower that the bearings and seals. The big gear and the final drive roller chains (not shown) dips in the oil and "sling it everywhere" which oils everything. Four oil holes can be seen in the hollow tubes that allows a small amount of oil onto the bar.

This small amount of oil slowly makes its way to the ends of the bar and then to the ends of the hollow tubes. The thin end-plugs are needed to not let the oil leak out.

Grandpa's DC · Apr 28, 2020

Thank you for the info that makes sense. In your earlier message you mentioned those caps (Welch/Freeze Plugs) can come off on the end and they can be replaced?

For now I will try the to use a sealer/epoxy like Permatex or Devcon.

Thanks again - Mark

ShakerPrairie · Apr 28, 2020

As Ron said gear oil travels to the end of the shaft by design.
When you're looking at that splined shaft what you're looking at is basically a hub with a hollow bore that runs on a shaft.
The shaft is inside behind the welch plug.
The plate that's held on by four 1/2" bolts is the differential bearing carrier.
If you remove it you'll be opening another can of worms and for no reason.
The welch plug is the issue.

Grandpa's DC · May 11, 2020

Hey Guys, I just want to give a shoot out to John Saeli, link below. He has the freeze plug for the tractor, ordered it, got the part in a few days and now more leak. Knowledgeable guy and had several parts I needed in stock.

Mark

http://external_link.com/

Grandpa's DC · May 18, 2020

Hey Guys, John Saeli had the freeze plug I needed so greatly appreciated that.

Ran into a different issue on the brake on the other side of the tractor. The seal is leaking. It appears to me that there's 4 bolts holding a housing plate to the transmission housing. That plate has the seal that needs replacing in it when I look at the parts manual pictures.

Any advice on replacing that seal? This is the differential brake seal for clarification.

Thank you,
Mark

BarryfromIA · May 18, 2020

Do not remove the plate just drill a couple of small holes in the metal part of the seal and start some small screws in the holes and work it out by pulling on the screws. Do not drill the numbers on the seal.

Grandpa's DC · May 19, 2020

(quoted from post at 17:57:16 05/18/20) Do not remove the plate just drill a couple of small holes in the metal part of the seal and start some small screws in the holes and work it out by pulling on the screws. Do not drill the numbers on the seal.

Thank you, I would have definitely removed the plate. This method seems much less intensive.

Thank you,
Mark

1951 DC Case Brake

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