Case 380 starting problem.

My 380 has developed some sort of electrical problem that won't allow it to start. The symptoms are as follows:

1. Tractor has always turned over very slowly when starting, many times turning the key and it would sound like a low battery, but hitting it a second or a third time and it would start. I just got used to it.

2. Now, when attempting to start, same as 1, but nothing on subsequent twists of the key.

3. Lights (oil pressure, etc.) on the dash very dim, go out completely when key turned to start position.

What I did so far:

4. Thought it was a low battery. Pulled the battery (only 2 years old), put it on the charger for a while (1-1/2 hours), voltage reading at end 12.8. No change in starting, still failed.

5.Noticed that when I turn the key on, there is a single sound like a solenoid closing somewhere under the dash.

6. Hooked the charger to the battery and set it on the "start engine" mode. It puts put a lot of amps and will usually start an engine. I have used it this way a couple of times while starting the big Cummins diesel in my RV.

7. With charger attached, turned on key. Lights on dash VERY bright and the solenoid click is now a repeated clicking, like a turn signal flasher.

8. Trying the starter and the starter solenoid goes into buzzing/clicking mode, but no starter activation.

That pretty well summarizes where I am right now. I really need to get this problem identified and solved since the sale of my home/property includes the tractor. I sure would appreciate any help y'all can offer.

Regards,

Bill Lee

You should be using a voltmeter and doing some checks for voltage drop, switches/solenoids not carrying current, checking the condition and connections of the cables and wiring of the start circuit.

That said, given the way your post reads this has been going on for quite a while and getting worse; I would pull the starter off right away and have it checked, it could be worn out and dragging internally.

Check and clean or replace your battery cables, especially the bolt where it grounds to the tractor frame. Look especially for corrosion around the post connectors and under the ends of outer insulation. Clean, bright and tight.

Also, if ground cable connects to a light metal framework, move it to cast frame as close to starter as possible.

Sounds like battery or dirty battery connections.

battery being only 2 years old doesn't mean much, not does the 12.8V. Voltage under load means much more.

I am working on problems on my son in laws Case 380, and it is doing the same thing. I can jumper
the solenoid at the starter and it fires right up like it is supposed to, and have a very dim light
with a test light at the solenoid terminal with the key in the start position. That is as far as I
have gotten. I am suspecting a bad ign switch. I just finished installing a Delco alternator that
was an easy conversion, even used the original belt.

A test light can be a indication, ideally testing with a voltmeter will tell for sure the voltage there.

Are you jumping between the large terminals of the solenoid, or applying power to the small (start) terminal? If you were able to get it to turn over properly with a jumper wire applying power to the small terminal of the solenoid then the solenoid and starter are good. The problem is between the solenoid and switch in that scenario. It could be the switch, the wire(s), neutral start switch, or any connections/connectors in the circuit.

Well, in my case it is not a starter problem as was first suggested. I ordered and installed a new starter and solenoid and the symptoms are the same.

As for corrosion:

The cable rpm the battery to the solenoid is brand new.
The ground strap from battery to ground is also new.

It almost feels like the engine just won't turn over! With the battery alone, I get a single click out of the starter solenoid and then nothing. When I hook up the battery charger on its "start engine" position, the starter solenoid fast-clicks, almost a buzzing, but no apparent activity of the engine.

Is there any way to manually turn the engine over?

"The cable rpm the battery..." should be

"The cable from the battery..."

Which 380 do you have, year? Some had inspection openings, with a cover, to the clutch compartment under the tractor. If yours has that opening you should be able to manually turn the engine from there.

Is the ground strap hooked directly to the tractor chassis or to sheet metal?

Have you checked for voltage drops, with a voltmeter?

What is the voltage at the battery cable terminal of the solenoid when just setting, not cranking?

What is the voltage at the battery cable terminal of the solenoid when trying to crank the engine with the starter?

WHOOOOHHOOOOO!!!!

New battery and it started right up! What a glorious sound!

Now that the euphoria of finding a simple answer to a badly misunderstood problem, I need to, first, thank all that responded, and second, fill in some answers to questions asked of me.

RGMartin hit the answer right on the head:

Sounds like battery or dirty battery connections.

battery being only 2 years old doesn't mean much, not does the 12.8V. Voltage under load means much more.

Click to expand...

While not dirty connections, it WAS a bad battery.

Jim.ME asked several pertinent questions:

Which 380 do you have, year? Some had inspection openings, with a cover, to the clutch compartment under the tractor. If yours has that opening you should be able to manually turn the engine from there.

Click to expand...

My tractor DOM is 1979. But I never got to the point of determining if it had the cover mentioned.

Is the ground strap hooked directly to the tractor chassis or to sheet metal?

Click to expand...

The ground strap is connected to the steel mount which supports the battery in front of the radiator. No body sheet metal involved.

Have you checked for voltage drops, with a voltmeter?

Click to expand...

Double checked the cable from the battery to the starter (it was newly made a year ago). Still in A-1 condition, no voltage drop across it.

What is the voltage at the battery cable terminal of the solenoid when just setting, not cranking?

Click to expand...

Ah, but the culprit emerges!

Even though the battery charged up to 12.8 volts as I mentioned, when checked later in the tractor, it was definitely bad: 10.7 volts. I surmise a bad cell. Interesting that it would charge up to nominal voltage and then be bad some few hours later.

What is the voltage at the battery cable terminal of the solenoid when trying to crank the engine with the starter?

Click to expand...

Never got to the point of making this check. After above, a quick trip to TSC and a new battery and all was well.

In the end, I did install a new starter and solenoid as well as the new battery. I don't feel badly of that since I had been suspicious of the starter and/or solenoid for years. Now it's right!

Regards,

Bill Lee

Thanks for letting us know. Glad to hear you got it.