Case 1170 brakes and park brake

fastline

Member
I am going to have to put the 1170 to work. Brakes have ALWAYS been an issue. They need bled about every time I get in it. As of last time I used it, one didn't want to bleed and I had pretty much one side only. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

I never did get any books for this machine so that makes it tougher.

Also, I do not recall a park brake in the machine? I assume they had one? Where? I most certainly am going to need one for some work I will do. It gets super frustrating trying to hitch up and cannot lock a brake once lined up.
 
Parking brake is to the left side of the seating on the floor,, sounds like you may have a leak or just need to rebuild the brake cylinders and brake valve or master cylinders,, not sure which you have, any leaks in the system need fixed,, they have very good brakes if the system is operating as it should be, 1170 have external brakes, they need to be kept free floating as they can get sticky and hang up,, a service manual is still available from cih today or look on line for one, I highly suggest a OEM one and not a worthless I&T as the Case one provides step by step instructions for all repairs and will walk you through inspection to make sure you find all the problems, 98% of the time problems there are from leaving the parking brake on and Smoking the parts, the other 2% is from lack of service and or normal wear
 
No, I am certain the brakes will work fine. when I had them all bled and running hay with it, they worked mint. The guy that sold it to me said "it has been sitting for quite a while so the brakes will need bled"..... that was code for "there is something wrong with them and I have to bleed them about every time its used".....

There are no visible leaks I can see near the brake drums anyway. When I get in it, the pedals will just go to the floor.

I think I looked for the master cylinder before and due to either the cab or something, it did not look like fun!

I sort of just want to know how they work so I can trouble shoot better.
 
If there are no leaks in your brake system, and they still need to be bled there is air getting in the system. I will assume you
have power brakes. There is most likely a leak on the suction side of your hydraulic pump allowing air into the system. Your
problem could be the O-ring on the suction side of the hydraulic pump. As you use the brakes the air gets into the slave
cylinders and stays there till it is bled out. Make sure your oil level is kept up. I have a 2090 that I need to keep well above
the full mark or it will suck air when the tractor leans to the right. If I do not keep it over full the brakes do the same thing
as yours.
 
Yes, power brakes. Once primed up, they function good until it sits for a few days or longer. My method for priming is as the prev owner described which is to start it, then just open the bleeders and let it idle with them open. There is always a mouthful of air. How the air gets in is puzzling me for sure.

I have kept the oil level higher than the full mark. If there was a suction side leak at the pump, would that not present more issues once running? I don't seem to have air in the loader, but maybe that is a different pump? I thought it just had the one at the back by the PTO?

I think I have tried pushing the a brake pedal with bleeders open and running hoping to force things but I don't think much comes out.
 
It is getting air at the sump check valve on the front of the brake valve. It will be the plastic line in the middle of brake valve at the front between the brake lines. You can not get a new check valve
anymore. Take the fitting the plastic line connects to and point it up and then put a loop in the plastic line and hook it back up. That check valve also controls the sump pressure which is the more pressure
the further the oil will come shooting out of the bleed screws. That check valve is adjustable.
 

Not much help but I offer you my sympathy.


I think I have posted in the past that I love my 1170----but it has a few warts!!! Two of these warts are the problems you mentioned-----(1)service brakes needing to be bled and (2) the rinky-dink parking brake linkage arrangement. I think the 1170 was intended to be a bare-bone, striped-down, less expensive version of the 1270 but would basically do work as fast as a 1270. The brake package on the 1170 suffered in this cost reduction.

After many times of going to the shop and struggling to finding a tiny closed-end wrench, usually totally hid among my bigger wrenches, I hung the tiny wrench in front of the gear shift on the vertical wall. I formed a wire hook, drilled a small hole in the vertical wall in front of the gear shift lever and I hung the needed closed-end wrench on a simple wire hook on the vertical wall.


If the tractor has been setting for a while, the procedure was to start the engine and check if the brakes need to be bled. If so, now I quickly retrieve the handy little wrench off the hook and proceed to bleed the brakes. With the engine idling it takes me only about 30 seconds of time to bleed each brake.



I gave up using the rust-prone, cable-and-pulley parking brake system. Oiling it collected crud. With a little up-front planning, I am able, most of the time, to just park on the level so the rig will not continue to roll.



Yup. Hooking up the drawbar is often a problem. As we all know, tractors tend to roll an inch or two after releasing the service brake. Most of the female tongues on my implements have enough throat to allow for backing up of an extra inch or two. Watching the drawbar, if the tractor does not then roll forward the exact amount needed, I make a second "tweak" without leaving the tractor seat. Usually a third tweak is not needed.

As we all know, a few unavoidable situations are more challenging and aggravating when the tractor WANTS TO KEEP ROLLING!!!! Not always planning ahead or able to park on the level, I expect at least a dozen time, during the 40+ years that I have had the 1170, I have had to back over a block of wood placed at the front wheel. I usually had to keep adjusting the block?s position #$%^&^%^^&** ----until the drawbar pin was aligned.

A few times, I have used my handy man jack against a tire lug to move the 1170 an inch or so. YUP-----the 1170 parking brake sucks but overall my workhorse is a keeper. You have my sympathy regarding the brakes on your 1170.
 
LOL, i didn't realize my issues were typical of these machines. Makes me want to solve the issue even more now.

Funny thing is I guess I DO have the service manual via PDF. only 76 pages, and very vague if you ask me. It seems someone was trying to save paper back in the day.

What I don't understand is they mention Type A trans fluid. I have zero clue where that would be or where to add it unless it has really been that long since I pushed that machine. There is a dipstick in the back and remember that covering the whole drivetrain. Manual trans here.

Sounds like I need to solve a problem on the park brake. No way I would go decades fighting it. It annoyed me from day one and I am ready to solve it.
 

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Here are pics from my 1170 parts book of the parking brake system. As someone else mentioned, the lever is on the floorboard below the left side of the seat. Look under the fuel tank to see this "mess". LOL

One solution is to free up all these cables, pulleys, brackets, etc. You need to hope the rather small retraction springs can pull the parking brake to the off position. Not a good place to start an oil crud fire under the plastic fuel tank.

I smelled a fire in one of the brakes one time but caught it early and was lucky to have some snow to throw on it to get it out.

I sort of keep track of how often and how hard I use these dry brakes. After 40+ years of driving my 1170, I learn to respect its shortcomings and still use the tractor to its full capacity.



Good luck solving the problem.
 

PS. It only uses three oils----- engine, final drives, and the transmission. The hydraulics and brakes use the transmission oil. I suspect the transmission originally called for Case TCH oil. I have used hyd-trans oil in the transmission for as long as I can remember. 15w-40 diesel engine oil and 85w-140 in the final drives.
 

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