580 ck b 188 diesel injection pump

leophelps

New User
My diesel injection pump went South. I know before I remove the old pump I need to time the engine. I can see the window on the side of the pump when I remove the two screws to line up the two slashes in the gears. I'm just unsure how to turn the engine over manually I've looked all over and can't really see anywhere around the flywheel where I would use a pry bar to turn the engine over. I did see online that I could remove the valve cover and wait till both valves closed on number one and then I should be closed but I still need to ensure that the two lines are near each other. Thanks for any suggestions.
 
If you can't find a better way, I'd remove the starter too. Hopefully the pump still turns, if the hydraulic head seized and broke the drive shaft better have the head pressed apart and find out WHY. I won't let a repaired pump go unless the old head is inspected to find the seizure cause, too expensive to risk putting another pump on without knowing why the previous pump failed. Can be caused by dirt, water in fuel, driveline misalignment, dropped line bolt washer, etc.
 
I have a 480C with the 188. On the RH side of the bell housing is an inspection plate attached by two bolts. I removed 1 bolt,
loosened the other, and rotated the cover plate. This inspection hole gives you access to the ring gear which you can rotate the
engine with a large screwdriver or whatever. You will also be able to see the timing marks on the flywheel. When timing, one
aligns the proper timing marks on the flywheel then rotate the pump until the lines align looking through the inspection hole in
the pump. Yes, Dieseltech rebuilt my pump and did a great job.
 
(quoted from post at 08:10:16 04/14/19) I have a 480C with the 188. On the RH side of the bell housing is an inspection plate attached by two bolts. I removed 1 bolt,
loosened the other, and rotated the cover plate. This inspection hole gives you access to the ring gear which you can rotate the
engine with a large screwdriver or whatever. You will also be able to see the timing marks on the flywheel. When timing, one
aligns the proper timing marks on the flywheel then rotate the pump until the lines align looking through the inspection hole in
the pump. Yes, Dieseltech rebuilt my pump and did a great job.

My tractor has an orange engine which makes me think it was replaced at one time considering the other ones I see are yellow as for the right side of the tractor there is only one 1 in threaded bolt on the flywheel that when I open has a small rod going front-to-back I didn't have a flashlight to shine in there but I'm guessing that I'd be looking at the teeth on the flywheel this fraud would prevent me from putting a pry bar in there and turning it. I have ordered a remote starting switch so I can get under the injection pump any get close, I can remove the starter if necessary.
 
(quoted from post at 13:56:24 04/14/19) Early 580B's have a Power Red belly/powertrain laters ones are all Federal Yellow
cnt
If you have the hex plug, 1 inch, you have a torque converter drive tractor. The procedure is the same, remember the pump marks will only come up when #1 cylinder is near the top of the compression stroke, if you do not find scribe lines in the pump you will have to turn the engine another turn, If you still do not find scribe lines the pump may have seized and broke the driveshaft or I have seen Woodruff keys sheared.
 
Leo, if no inspection plate, then pull the starter as others have suggested to get to the ring gear to rotate the engine.
Somewhere there's also timing marks that will be required to time the engine.
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:58 04/14/19) Leo, if no inspection plate, then pull the starter as others have suggested to get to the ring gear to rotate the engine.
Somewhere there's also timing marks that will be required to time the engine.

My problem is I getting someone else here to crank it for me but thank you
 
On this particular engine, as well as the 207 both use the
Stanadyne rotary pump.
As long as the two "Dots" are lined up on the shaft your golden.

Now in a perfect world you can bar the engine over while you check the marks.

Or push down on the fan belt while pulling the fan and look.

Usually I don't bother either just pull the filter housing, Inj lines
And the pump.

I don't pull the timing cover either to remove the shaft.
The pump will pull off and leave the drive shaft installed.
Nor do I pull the exhaust manifold.

On the drive shaft male tang is a dot.
Inside the pump is a female slot with a dot.
When going back on use a large screwdriver to rotate the
Pump drive slot until the two dots will be aligned.

Hardest part is making sure you rollover the first umbrella seal
on the drive shaft as you come on with the pump.
And don't over stretch new seal when installing them on the shaft.
I never bought the fancy tool, I just take my time ,grease them up good, and use a plastic toothpick or? to help start the lip on the seal.

Works for me, I just R&R the same pump on my 580D

Tom
 
Sorry
Correction no edit function.

Hardest part is making sure you rollover the first umbrella seal
on the drive shaft as you come on with the pump.

Should read
Hardest part is making sure you DON'T rollover the first umbrella seal
on the drive shaft as you come on with the pump.

Tom
 


TPG,

Don't let that bother you, I am prone to doing the same thing on occasion, we all knew what you meant, I also miss the edit feature and have spoken to support about it and they always say they will work on it.
 

Well I have some good news and some bad news I know why the pump went bad only the front side of the pump is spinning and the backside isn't.

I'm still looking all over for timing but I guess I'm going to remove it anyway hoping that somewhere there's a timing mark if not I can always pull the valve cover and time it from the Pistons themself.
 
Forgot also to mention that there's a notch in the timing cover
Where the pump flange bolts up.
Make sure there is a timing line on the flange to mate with
The cover notch.

If not, scribe a line or better a small chisel and make a line.

Tom
 

I'm sure I'm not the only one to ever have a problem getting that third Bolt off of the housing, the one on the Block side. I have heated and ground three. No success. Any recommendations for shape to try?
 
My 611B has a different motor (and it's gas) but it is a COM and has the large plug and pointer for the timing as described. Shame on me, if I took a pic I can't find it now. But the marks are very faint stamped lines. The book says to have someone turn the motor for you while you watch, but I don't think that would work well, they are so faint you'd probably miss them that way. I finally just got out a step-stool and turned the motor over by hand, as small an increment as I possibly could, then climbed back down and shone a flashlight in the hole, then back up for another 'bump". Might have been easier to pull the starter. BTW you can forget trying to turn it over with the starter, unless you can consistently move the flywheel 1/2" and no more that way--I can't come close. My gas motor has two marks, TDC and (IIRC) 3BTDC for spark timing, my guess is your diesel has only one. This is where a manual is needed. Anyway I did finally find it, took close to an hour, at first sight I said "what's that there?", climbed back up and bumped the motor back 1/2 bump and there it was. I tried to clean it and paint it but oil splashes around in there so it probably went away. Good luck with yours!
 
(quoted from post at 21:07:06 04/16/19)
I'm sure I'm not the only one to ever have a problem getting that third Bolt off of the housing, the one on the Block side. I have heated and ground three. No success. Any recommendations for shape to try?
I use a curved starter wrench.
Ground the end a little narrower to get it
On the nut.
Tom
 
Thanks for all of the help so far I have the pump out I sent it out to get rebuilt and I have it back in the person who rebuild it told me that the shaft going into the pump had a DOT on it and the pump itself had a. On the inside as long as I match the two of those up it would be in time.

My next problem seems to be with the fuel filter setup that came standard on it there's a canister like an oil filter for home heating oil and next to it is a filter that spins on I'm not really thrilled about the setup and I was considering replacing it does anyone have any recommendations?

I also need to do a little research I'm guessing I need to bleed this thing
 
Well here's where I am..

Replaced filter housing with one for a marine diesel. The housing was leaking slowly. Put new housing and filter/separator on. Cranked and didnt have fuel to injectors. Called company that rebuilt pump. They told me to put a low pressure fuel pump before the stanadyne one and disconnect return at pump and crank away until I had fluid. After a minute, I had fuel coming out. Reconnected and cranked. Wouldn't start. Added a hint of starting fluid. Fired for a second, wouldn't run. Disconnected throttle linkage. Moved it all the way to rear of tractor for full throttle. Cranked and added a little starting fluid. Would stay running but only at barely idle engine speed. Stalled with slightest movement off of wide open throttle. Also wiggled stop cable while running. Engine shut off when cable slightly pulled, same as before rebuild.

Gonna call rebuilder tomorrow. And suggestions from here?
 
(quoted from post at 08:17:41 04/11/19) If you can't find a better way, I'd remove the starter too. Hopefully the pump still turns, if the hydraulic head seized and broke the drive shaft better have the head pressed apart and find out WHY. I won't let a repaired pump go unless the old head is inspected to find the seizure cause, too expensive to risk putting another pump on without knowing why the previous pump failed. Can be caused by dirt, water in fuel, driveline misalignment, dropped line bolt washer, etc.
 
Just curious do you have the injector lines loose at the injectors and are you getting fuel there while you are cranking? You may still have air in the lines between the pump and the injectors.

Good luck!
 

Many times I have had to bleed the big line from the filter base right at the inlet elbow at the top of the pump, in fact I always do when installing a pump, It is nor necessary when doing filters as the rubber at the top filter on the base stem comes up and covers the hole that allows fuel to flow to the pump.
 

Tom, just curious as to how you get any type of tool into the tiny space to keep the umbrella from rolling over...? Is there something I am missing because the umbrella seal keeps rolling over
 

what kind of wrench are you using to remove the inside bolt, I'm having the same problem...I've grinder down a few but can't find the right tool..I finally used a crows foot that worked to remove that stubborn nut...not much room to work on it either.
 
There is a special clamp type seal compressor to aid pump installation but I do not use it, I lube the seal up and use.my fingers to slowly work the seal into the bore but I have done many of them so kinda used to it.
 

What is the condition of the bushing the umbrella seals run in? Any ridges or grooves? Those can catch and roll the umbrella seals.
 

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