580C Power shuttle overhaul

Mike Fitz

Member
Iv'e gotten my service manual, and have the transmission on the bench,I'v taken off the pan and pick up screen, and found a few metal filings. I've taken off the front pump cover and things look ok. All of the pictures show the unit being worked on in the vertical position, would it be worth my time to build a jig of some sort to hold the unit this way, or is there a better way to do this? Is there anything I need to watch for as I take it apart that the manual doesn't cover well? Any comments will be welcome.
Thanks Mike
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:56 01/06/20) Iv'e gotten my service manual, and have the transmission on the bench,I'v taken off the pan and pick up screen, and found a few metal filings. I've taken off the front pump cover and things look ok. All of the pictures show the unit being worked on in the vertical position, would it be worth my time to build a jig of some sort to hold the unit this way, or is there a better way to do this? Is there anything I need to watch for as I take it apart that the manual doesn't cover well? Any comments will be welcome.
Thanks Mike


Mike, I always used a vice and you can protect the shaft with a piece of cardboard wrapped around the jaw area, follow the manual step by step, shaft in the vice bearing end up, remove the snap rings and take the assembly out of the vice and place a 2x4 on the floor and just use that to pop the shaft out, good chance you will find a broken bell spring washer that applies the clutches.

A good Case dealer will have your parts as kits, gasket,clutches, bearings, do yourself a big favor and if the drive lugs in the pump are worn replace it, the down side is if the lugs on the pump are worn so is the area on the converter stub as they wear together, If it needs a converter bite the bullet and get it. reason being, the converter rotates at engine speed and all the debris from normal wear and clutch deterioration will be slung out by centrifugal action and be caked in the converter, A transmission shop could probably flush it but with age I have seen sprag clutches fail and make the tractor unusable, Case sells remans for them also, downside on a C you have to support the engine and remove the bell housing which has the engine mounts on it

. Case also will recommend in the service manual to replace the cooler up front as well but most time they can be flushed by blowing solvent through them with air pressure, They are the 2 lines you removed from the the RH side that go front, keep us posted and pay close attention to snap ring selection at he clutch backing plate. with the one kit you will get a selection of snap rings identical except for thickness and you must select one to give the proper clearance as that sets piston travel and not enough running clearance and the forward clutch will drag, we will talk you through it, One more thing, completely remove the ball bearing and leave it out. Will explain why as we go along.
 
mEL Thanks! I will do as you say, I hadn't thought about the drive lugs, I pulled the engine and transmission out as a unit so I could work on them in a warm place, and need to look at the ring gear so the bell housing will come off anyway. Just so I'm sure,you are saying grip the transmission input shaft in the vice and drop the case down to separate, is this a good job to have a helper?
Mike
 
Some pictures
cvphoto1512.jpg


cvphoto1513.jpg


cvphoto1514.jpg


cvphoto1515.jpg


cvphoto1516.jpg
 
take the snap rings both out, put the 2x4 on the floor, remove the assembly from the vice turn upside down and bang the splined end of the shaft on the wood sharply, the shaft and planetary assembly will come right out, just use the weight of the unit to move the shaft.
 
mEL, Thanks for the instructions, I was having a brain block for a bit, disassembly is going smoothly as far as I can tell, the only thing i can see wrong at this point is the spring in the clutch pack is in about a dozen pieces, everything else looks remarkably good. I did not take the pinion cage out of the rear of the transmission as it is tight and turns very smoothly. I did not take the input shaft clear apart, if I put new seals on it is there any reason to do so? I took out the ball bearing too. The clutch packs look good as far as I can tell.


cvphoto1596.jpg


cvphoto1597.jpg


cvphoto1598.jpg
 
Mike, if u are doing a rebuild, there are seals on the back of the planetary shaft that direct the oil down the center of the hollow shaft to engage the forward clutch, they should be replaced. all the seals come in one kit, from what I can see the converter lugs do not look badly worn, when you get the pump disassembled I would like to see the drive lug wear pattern, I knew you wouldfind the spring broken.
 
I have seen pump gears in much worse shape than that but the wear on the drive lugs is tapered and will cause rearward pressure of the gear against the pump body, is it your intention to rebuild this unit or are you are just "patching it up" then. I did these as a profession and when mine left the shop there could not be cutting corners or the next time we could not charge the customer, any advice I give you will be based on that thought process. If it were mine I would reseal the clutches, replace all the sealing rings and get the kit that has the snap rings to set up the working clearance on the forward clutch back plate,The heart of that system is the pump and I would replace it and the converter and do a complete disassembly, cleaning and resealing, there isa kit that includes all new bearings, that could be optional if all the existing ones are smooth. I have successfully squared up the drive lugs on the convert with a good flat file but would prefer that you replace it as like I mentioned before there is debris caked inside that converter that cannot be removed except at a transmission shop where they have a special converter cleaning machine. You will have to decide what kind of a job you want ultimately.
 
mEl,
Thank you for your input, I've never been a power shift transmission before, so your insight is valuable to me, This is an old farm backhoe that only gets occasional use, so not breaking the bank on an overhaul has meaning, but being too cheap to do it reasonably well is not good either, I have been thinking along the same lines as you have described. This transmission has been serviced at some time, the bearings and plates look good to me, the pump and converter would probably last along time, but Murphy's law applies, so I think I will replace them, a new clutch spring and reseal the whole thing and cross my fingers.
Mike
 
One step forward one step backwards. mEl, I received my transmission parts today, and was getting back to work on my project. The book described taking off the sealing rings and snap ring off the input shaft and pressing off the clutch collar to check for wear and looseness, I did so, and after a modest pass in the press the collar won't budge, I am wondering if it is tight and shows no damage or wear that I can tell, would it be acceptable to just change the two teflon rings on the back and reinstall it? I've broken one of the metal sealing rings and they are 22.50 each to replace.
Mike
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top