Case 990 PRO cover removal.

Hello, I need to remove the PTO cover from a case 990 selectamatic. Other than the warning light housing on the bottom of the cover, is there any other parts/ connections that I need to disconnect? I don't have any manuals. Would appreciate any advice on precautions I need to be aware of. Thanks, Steve.

IIRC there are a couple little things need unbolting. After than it's pretty easy, but heavy.

Sir, I'm going good to have a look-see at the hydraulic pump. Also I am concerned about the plumbing from pump to valve and lift cylinder. I hope the lines aren't split. Have you ever replaced any of those components? If the suction loss is coming from a busted line, does that require removing the valve block in order to replace them? I have no oil flow coming to the chamber that the selector switch ( TCU,depth, height ) sits on top of. I know there has been frozen water/Hyd fluid mixture in the system. Thanks for any info or insight. Steve

There is nothing special you need to disconnect. I'm attaching photos of what is inside. "I don't have any manuals" - I am pretty sure I gave you this link in one of your prior posts. It contains a free pdf of the I&T manual for your tractor. See also the following link which contains free pdfs of most all of the factory David Brown manuals that apply to your tractor:

https://sites.google.com/site/deerebrown/david-brown-info-ii/other-free-pdf-manuals




David Brown manuals free pdfs

Sir, Thank You. I appreciate your help. Thanks for all the Info links. Steve

If you pull that pump and then go to put one back in, be sure you read the part in the manual about making sure the gears mesh right. If you don't you WILL ship (at least) a tooth and get to take it all apart again.

Theres a pretty fair chance your pump is just worn. IIRC it's an aluminum casting with steel gears. They wear out if the oil isn't changed.

I've got it down to only one bolt is holding the cover. I must go get a couple of bolts to make long - guide studs, before I go further. Are you referring to the manual - David Brown - Two speed power take off. 8 pages. Where it refers to engagement of the high speed gear and alignment? On page 3.

I don't know what page it's on. I'm talking about when you put the hyd pump in you NEED to bump the engine over to get the gears to mesh fully before you tighten things up.

Thanks, I read about that . I see from the pics you posted that our tractors are built a little different. However, I also see that our repair shops are similar. I'm working on the ground , using pallets also. It's raining today, will be even more fun. I've got to frame up something to hang a come-along on today. Thanks for your help.
To be honest, I'm pretty concerned about turning the engine over while trying to get the gears to align. Just have to feel my way along. Steve

(quoted from post at 12:26:44 08/27/19) Thanks, I read about that . I see from the pics you posted that our tractors are built a little different. However, I also see that our repair shops are similar. I'm working on the ground , using pallets also. It's raining today, will be even more fun. I've got to frame up something to hang a come-along on today. Thanks for your help.
To be honest, I'm pretty concerned about turning the engine over while trying to get the gears to align. Just have to feel my way along. Steve

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Well, I haven't posted any pictures, but you're welcome. The pto cover isn't that heavy, I don't think it weighs 100lbs even. I know I took mine off and put it back on alone and I'm pretty wimpy these days. You have to turn the the engine a bit, just a "bump" or 2 or the gears won't mesh and you'll bust one. Just make sure the fuel rod is in the "OFF" position and bump it, then check the pump and you'll see if it's ready to go in all the way or not.

Hi Steve, I'm the guy that was working on the bare ground using pallets to keep everything out of the mud. I removed the pto cover and put it back on by myself. I eased it down to the ground by hand. I used a floor jack to help me lift it back up into position. I put down a piece of plywood on top of the pallet so I could roll the floor jack close to the rear end of the tractor. I forgot to bump the engine as I was pushing it on. Maybe I broke a tooth, maybe I didn't. I'll find out when I finally get the thing started. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks. Good luck with yours.

Joestewart, Sir I apologize for responding to the incorrect member. I appreciate all the folks and help that has been given to me. The photos that you posted were helpful.
Yes, I was also going to lay pallets and top them with plywood or something that I could maneuver a small lift jack on. Hope the mild weather hangs around for a good bit longer. Thanks again, Steve

Sir, Thanks for the help. I responded to another members reply (post ) and made the mistake of sending it to you. Yes, I will proceed with caution, just bumping the engine over a little at a time until the gears are correctly aligned. Thanks, Steve

Turning the PTO shaft by hand to mesh the gears makes more sense to me as you can feel what is happening. Lots of times manuals have a method that may work, but not necessarily the best way.

Mr. Martin, Thanks for the reply. I had thought about turning the PTO by hand as I slipped the unit back on. This being the first time that I have ever dismantled the unit, I have many questions. I certainly appreciate all the ideas and information that you fellows have to offer. I wish that I had the ( tecno-savy) to post pictures, going forward I will have many questions. I'm a believer in " a picture is worth a thousand words ". I really hope that I can revive this Old Tractor for my family, before they have to plant me.
I know that I will need a remote valve, as the one on the tractor is just too far gone. If you or anyone else that might read this post has any info as to the location and availability of one, I would appreciate that info. The only need I have for one is to feed the valve block that controls the loader bucket. There is a " power beyond manifold " that mounts on top of the original remote valve. Would it be possible to just remove the original remote valve and just mount the " power beyond manifold " in its place, then run a pressure feed line from it to the loader control valve and then run a return line from the loader control valve block back to the manifold ? Thanks for your help, Steve

The remotes can be repaired if just leaking. usually just an O-ring or seal.

the power beyond block can be used by itself without a remote, just you will need shorter bolts.

make sure if the loader valve isn't attached to the power beyond, that you couple the 2 ports of the bower beyond together. Otherwise you will be very hard on your pump.

(quoted from post at 23:40:25 08/27/19) Turning the PTO shaft by hand to mesh the gears makes more sense to me as you can feel what is happening. Lots of times manuals have a method that may work, but not necessarily the best way.

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So put a pipe or strap wrench on it and turn the shaft? Interesting. I guess it would do the same thing as bumping the engine. Learn something new every day!

Mr. Martin, As I don't have the manifold block off yet, I don't completely understand your comment about the valve block that operates the bucket loader being tied back to the power beyond manifold and tying the ports together. If you don't mind, when you get a chance explain this further. The remote valve is in very bad shape, no saving it. Thanks, Steve

Mr. Martin, Bret, and Joe.
So I finally got to the pump. The pump has a crack all the way across one side of the impeller housing. I suppose that the same ( water/ freezing ) incident that buckled the suction pipe ( on the pickup end ), and also bulged the bottom of the filter housing , was when all of the damage occurred.
I would ask all or any of you , that now knowing what I have found as far as the freezing of the filter housing, suction pipe, and pump being cracked, what other parts would warrant close inspection? What are the chances that the hard line ( internal hydraulic fluid pipes ) are also split or busted ? The portions of the lines that I can see do not appear to be bulged out any where. Thanks, Steve