351 again (electric questions)

kenbob

Well-known Member
Had a satisfying weekend working on the 351. Each trip brings new questions. I pulled the old cigar lighter out of the dash and intend to replace
it. I don't smoke, but I thought the port might come in handy for a cell phone charger. Will these lighter chargers work with 12v POS? Also do the
2 lights that light the gauges just pull out the back? Didn't want to break anything so I left them be for this trip.
 
"Will these lighter chargers work with 12v POS?"

They will work well at letting their "magic smoke" out for a short time, I'm sure!

NOT sure, there are probably some USB chargers out there that work with a lighter socket in a 12 Volt (+) ground system, but a quick 'net search didn't turn up any.

An alternative would be to get an isolated ground lighter socket and connect it up so the center pin goes to the (grounded) (+) side of the electrical system and the "shell" connection goes to the (hot) (-) side f the system as described t the link below.
negative ground lighter socket in a positive ground car
 
So would this work. looks like the body is plastic, you could hook up the wires accordingly, grounding the negative to the frame. But wouldn't that send a fault through the system with the neg ground on the one item? Sorry, I am pretty green on electronics.
 
If you're asking about the one in the article, yes it probably would IF you could get it mounted like they say there. But it looks iffy to me. I would make sure it was mounted completely in plastic with no chance of the metal barrel touching the tractor frame, because that metal barrel must be negative. You need the center contact to be positive, that is frame ground for your tractor unless you switch to neg ground. Which is not difficult, solves the problem of mounting the cig lighter, and gives you the option of changing to an alternator if your generator heads south.
 
From your observations, it seems like it would work.

So long as the "shell" of the socket is isolated from it's mounting to the steel "dash" and you can connect it appropriately it will work.

"But wouldn't that send a fault through the system with the neg ground on the one item? Sorry, I am pretty green on electronics."

We aren't dealing with "electronics" here, just some basic electricity, and as long as the connections of the lighter are isolated from the chassis, there'll be no issues.
 
The dash light sockets are push-on type. Buy universal type to fit lamp socket and the dash hole any auto parts store.

Joe
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Thanks Joe, I thought they were, but I have been surprised before. Also, back about 6 pages I sent a link to a gas tank sending unit I found asking your opinion if it would work. It was on the 351 gauges question. You seem to be quite a Case guru. I am taking apart the frozen brake today. Once I get it apart do I dare spray those balls with any type of lube? I was wondering if a little Triflow (teflon) spray would be good as it does not collect dirt after it dries.
 
I only have Case experience in VA thru 530 tractors. I presently have a '56 310 & '59 311B.

I can't remember the SW nr of the 12v fuel sender I was using in tractor SW gauge repairs, I was buying NAPA universal senders so using their nrs which I can't remember either. I have a new SW 385C-F 6-12 arm in the shop but it is RH, probably the reason it is still on the shelf. The left hand equivalent is 385B-F. I am not sure now if that was the one I was using on the 300/300B tractors but I always preferred the electrical components mounted on the cover rather than submerged in the gas like the 391A-F that Barry posted. Just my preference, probably makes no difference. Pic is 385B-F sender.

On the brakes again I have to assume they are the same as the other 300/300B series tractors. The lube is ok, naturally you don't want to get it on the friction discs. A few issues with the brakes, shaft seal leaks oil on to the discs, drain holes plugged retaining water in the brake housing promoting rust, chrome rusted off balls. The balls are trapped in ramps between the two actuating discs. When brakes are applied one actuating disc turns, that forces the balls into a smaller area of the ramps to spread the actuating discs and in turn the friction discs into the braking position. The ramps tend to get small wear ridges that tend to stick the balls and make them jump the ridges. If your brakes lock up and than break loose with a bang, likely these ridges and/or rusted balls. Clean up the ramps and replace all the balls if any worn or rusted chrome, they are regular 7/8" dia bearing type balls

Joe


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a guy I know who has MM says they have the same type of brakes and on the ones he has worked on the balls are all gunked up just like you said. I got a chance to work on mine yesterday. THe 3 pivot points were frozen. Some PB and a hammer got them loose. The thing works like it should as far as I can tell, but if I can get the thing apart I will clean up as you say. I use that Triflow on my bike chain as the bike repair guy says it doesn't collect dirt like other lubes. Otherwise, the drain hole was open on the bottom and no leaks on the shaft seal so it is all pretty easy except for freeing those stubborn nuts. Even the arm with the cotter pin wants to play hard ball with me. The otherside the actuator works fine but the pads must be completely gone. Always good to have at least one working brake on a tractor that goes that fast. Ha ha!

I will order that 385 sending unit but not till I do an ohm test on my old one. THanks again for all the great advice.
 
Sorta weird that MM, IH and Oliver (maybe others) all use the same type of brake on certain tractors. The pads don't interchange on any of them as far as I can tell as each one has different splines. Oddly, the Case are almost twice the money as the others.
 
CASEih still supplies a spring that pulls the plates together for the brakes on all 300's. The brakes probably were supplied by an oem supplier.
 
Thanks. My springs are there and seem to have good tension. I guess as long as it is apart replacing them would be a wise idea as well.
 

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