Just a question on Hydraulic Transmission oils. Prior to advice I got on here from Adirondack case guy I went and bought 60 liters of generic oil from WalMart which stated it was compatible with many tractor manufacturers HYTran products including Case. After Adirondack case guy mentioned how one could damage the clutches in my 1070 Powershift I decided to go get the Real Case HyTran oil. An observation of the Case oil beside the fact it is red is it seems to be of a thinner viscosity than the generic stuff. As I had only owned newer JD CUT and HD garden tractors prior to this 1070, the Case HyTran reminds me other than the color of JD's HyGuard hydraulic oil. Am I seeing things correctly? On the invoice it did say that the HyTran I got was a substitute for the original spec stuff for the 1070.
- Thread starter Saskman61
- Start date
Ande
Well-known Member
If I owned a "1070" with a power shift, HyTran would be the only oil I would use, no matter what. What you might not know, if HyTran works well in high heat situations. It will care for your PS transmission. Regarding John Deere oils, they are also made for the John Deere transmissions, it might work in a Case, but with a Case PS I wouldn't use them
Oh I would never use the JD stuff in my 1070, it was just an observation that the oils looked far more similar than the supposed generic equivalent from wally world. The 1070 will have nice new Case HyTran in it this week. The Walmart stuff has no more than a 1/2 hour on it but what came out of it beside being very dirty was similar in viscosity to the Walmart stuff. Maybe that is what is causing my issue with grinding when I try to put it in gear.
Ranchingelec
Member
We have used the Walmart oil now for the past 15 years. No troubles with the
power shifts. In winter I will mix a pail of full synthetic hytran into the transmision
so that -30 winter startups are not so slow. As for your grinding when putting into
gear. If you hold the clutch down for a while will it still grind going into gear? It
could be that your c2 and or c3 clutch packs are dragging. This happens when
the belville spring washers in the clutch packs break. Seen that happen more
than I can count on one hand.
power shifts. In winter I will mix a pail of full synthetic hytran into the transmision
so that -30 winter startups are not so slow. As for your grinding when putting into
gear. If you hold the clutch down for a while will it still grind going into gear? It
could be that your c2 and or c3 clutch packs are dragging. This happens when
the belville spring washers in the clutch packs break. Seen that happen more
than I can count on one hand.
I was finishing cleaning the valve this morning and noticed that the outer clutch modulator spring is missing (the one that sits at the plug on the valve body). That seems to explain why the clutch spool never returned to the fully out position. What really surprised me is the dealer has a number of these springs in another of their locations and will have one here for me tomorrow.
Went through some of the same research a while back with the 2590 and 7140. The current Hytran "ultraction" is a 10-30 oil
and is thicker than previous hytran formulas. JD HyGard is/has been a 10weight for a long time.
The hytran had to be thicker for the cvt transmissions and replace the nexplore and some others....generally confusing mess of
info that I waddled through....
and is thicker than previous hytran formulas. JD HyGard is/has been a 10weight for a long time.
The hytran had to be thicker for the cvt transmissions and replace the nexplore and some others....generally confusing mess of
info that I waddled through....
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