ANother 1070 Question How to adjust the clutch

Saskman61

Member
I need some guidance to adjust the clutch on my 1070 as my service manual won't be here till next week and I really want to get this done before the cold stuff hits.

The clutch does not seem to be totally disengaging as I get a bit of grinding when selecting a range. Once it goes into a range I can change ranges OK till I put it in neutral and leave it running for a bit then I have the same issue again. It does not change at all when the tractor warms up. I did have some sticking of the pedal when I first brought it home that I cured with cleaning the pivot point on the pedal and then using some lubricant on it. Now the pedal seems to be coming all the way up.

Any help would be great

and thanks again
 
You do not have a typical dry clutch in that tractor. The pedal operates the power shift control valve. When the pedal is fully depressed you should hear/feel an engine surge. When the engine surges the power shift unit should be locked and not turning, thus no grinding. Try pushing the pedal down a bit harder and see if the tractor surges. If not you will need to adjust the linkage to move the spool a bit further with pedal down so it stops the power shift output shaft. If that does not work, you may have other problems.
Loren
 
The tractor surges abit. I tried adjusting the turnbuckle to get the pedal to push the valve further which didn't seem to do much except when I let the clutch out the tractor didn't move so I assume I went way to far. I then adjusted the linkage the other way which seemed to make the tractor shift better on the powershift but still didn't correct the grinding so I am guessing that something is not quite right else where. I am going to take the floor board out tomorrow. and have a look at the valve body. I take it there are no external adjustments for the brake on the power shift. One more thing, I changed the hydraulic filters and the fluid. The fluid was pretty dirty and there was quite a bit of sludge in the rear drain plug area to the point when I took the plug out it didn't drain, I had to put my finger in the hole and then it drained. There was also sludge in the bottom of the white filter.
 
Also it does shift very well once it's in a range and the loader moves consistently in all 3 gears on the powershift.
 
Sounds like you have problems in the PS valve-pilots sticking or worse yet, warped RPS34 clutch plates which will require a complete split and tear down of the RPS 34 unit. I would follow Rod 1370's past post and do a complete cleaning of the PS control valve and hope for the best.
After following hes tuteral for cleaning the valve, and it only grinds a bit, just use it until you no longer can engage the 4spd part of the tranny. Then you are due for a costly rebuild.
I hope that you do not have after market hyd/tranny oil in it. That stuff is known to cause the glue that holds the linings to the clutch plates fail.
Loren
 
I am going to take the RPS 34 off the tractor and clean it as suggested. So my question is does anyone have the part numbers for the gaskets I need. I talked to the case dealer on the phone and he didn't seem to understand what I was looking for. Also my manual has not come yet so can anyone offer some info on torque for the bolts etc and if there are any adjustments I would have to make afterward.

Thanks again everyone that has offered help.
 

When ordering the valve gaskets get the TRANSMISSION sn off the plate on the RH side of the tranny as there a couple serial number breaks on those tractors.

The spool for the clutch should travel all the way bottoming on each end of stroke in the valve, check to see if there is a stop bolt in the pedal that stops the pedal from coming up, if it is there throw it away and adjust the bottom stop bolt so the stop bolt touches the firewall at the same time the spool stops in the control valve.
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:10 10/17/18) Sounds like you have problems in the PS valve-pilots sticking or worse yet, warped RPS34 clutch plates which will require a complete split and tear down of the RPS 34 unit. I would follow Rod 1370's past post and do a complete cleaning of the PS control valve and hope for the best.
After following hes tuteral for cleaning the valve, and it only grinds a bit, just use it until you no longer can engage the 4spd part of the tranny. Then you are due for a costly rebuild.
I hope that you do not have after market hyd/tranny oil in it. That stuff is known to cause the glue that holds the linings to the clutch plates fail.
Loren

You have me a bit worried about the aftermarket lube thing.

Just about every year, I have to replace one of the plastic lines that run over the transmission to ports behind the dashboard. Rats get up on top of the tranny, and eat them.

Before I realized this was gonna be a chronic problem, I just about pumped out most of the oil in the tranny. Was pulling the offset (only thing I use the 1370 for), and happened to get off the tractor to kick some mud out of the scrapers, and noticed a steady stream of oil coming out on the ground. It wasn't leaking when I fired up in the morning. Apparently the line was weakened by gnawing, and finally gave way while in the field. I check the lines every year now.

Anyways, it shut me down, and I had to get some oil in it quick like. Ran to town, and picked up some trans-hydro that "meets Case requirements" so said the label. I forget how many pails of that stuff it took to bring it up to dipstick level. Thank God I got off the tractor when I did.

Haven't been any ill effects far as I can tell. Stuff's been in there for quite a few years, but it gets me to thinking.

I know lube is one of the most controversial things on the internet :lol: I particularly love the arguments that revolve around '303' fluid :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:10 10/17/18) Sounds like you have problems in the PS valve-pilots sticking or worse yet, warped RPS34 clutch plates which will require a complete split and tear down of the RPS 34 unit. I would follow Rod 1370's past post and do a complete cleaning of the PS control valve and hope for the best.
After following hes tuteral for cleaning the valve, and it only grinds a bit, just use it until you no longer can engage the 4spd part of the tranny. Then you are due for a costly rebuild.
I hope that you do not have after market hyd/tranny oil in it. That stuff is known to cause the glue that holds the linings to the clutch plates fail.
Loren

You have me a bit worried about the aftermarket lube thing.

Just about every year, I have to replace one of the plastic lines that run over the transmission to ports behind the dashboard. Rats get up on top of the tranny, and eat them.

Before I realized this was gonna be a chronic problem, I just about pumped out most of the oil in the tranny. Was pulling the offset (only thing I use the 1370 for), and happened to get off the tractor to kick some mud out of the scrapers, and noticed a steady stream of oil coming out on the ground. It wasn't leaking when I fired up in the morning. Apparently the line was weakened by gnawing, and finally gave way while in the field. I check the lines every year now.

Anyways, it shut me down, and I had to get some oil in it quick like. Ran to town, and picked up some trans-hydro that "meets Case requirements" so said the label. I forget how many pails of that stuff it took to bring it up to dipstick level. Thank God I got off the tractor when I did.

Haven't been any ill effects far as I can tell. Stuff's been in there for quite a few years, but it gets me to thinking.

I know lube is one of the most controversial things on the internet :lol: I particularly love the arguments that revolve around '303' fluid :lol:
 
One more thing in the attached picture do the adjustment screws that are circled in purple need to be removed prior to taking the cover off. I know the one circled in black should come off as there is a spring and ball behind it. I ask as the cover does not seem to want to come off. Also I checked on the Case parts sight and according to the tractor serial number, it is a late model unit but the PS Control does not look the same as the one on the sight has additional lines in the cover
mvphoto26274.jpg
 
At this point Should I be able to put a flat bar between the body and cover and pry the cover off or am I missing something?
 
the cover is stuck on the gasket, the big nut has a spring ball and two loose collars that need removed for ease of reassembly these parts should b e installed after torquing except the collar in the body is installed before the gasket is put down
 

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