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52 VAC Gas Tank

D

D Glenn

Member
Is this tank worth fixing or should I try and find another one? When there was just 1 hole I had planned to solder it and go with it. When I started cleaning the tank they multiplied.
Darin
a282246.jpg
 
Probably all tanks on VAC's are going to display the same problems. Condensation on the inside, creating rust and rusting through in the 68 + or - years of their existence. There are probably more thin spots just waiting to break through. Solder your holes if you like, then use one of the fluid tank liners. Otherwise you will most likely be doing it again sooner than you'd like. jmo....gobble
 
I vote for fix it. There are too few VAC tanks left out there IMO. As Tom said, fill the holes, then seal the tank, should be good for a long time.
 
I have at least one VAC gas tank maybe 2. I have 2 1946 VAC parts tractors on the place plus one I use and another one that needs a little TLC to make it run and a VAI.

My self I have never had much luck fixing a gas tank but one has to be very careful in doing so.
 
If you are going to solder it, turn the gas tank upside down for a few days with the fill tube above whatever it is resting on so the fumes can escape.

Also, the firm I work for designs aviation fueling systems for DOD. Our mechanical engineers do not allow any uncoated metal (except stainless steel) to come in contact with fuel. Water in the fuel is bad for the metal, rust on the metal is bad for the fuel.
 
Instead of soldering, how about using JB weld? Much safer to do.
I had a Case SC that had a very lose, wobbly crank shaft pully that I fixed with JB weld. That was 18 years ago and it?s still holding up.
If you want to beef up the gas tank repair you add fiberglass cloth to the JB weld material.
Jim
 
I guess I will attempt to repair it. I have been letting it air out for about a week now and it will probably be another week or so before I get started on it. I was very surprised when the additional holes started showing thru as the rust inside the tank is minimal (but enough I guess). I will try and get a couple of pictures of the inside and post tomorrow.

As for soldering I was planning to clean it out thoroughly a couple of times to remove the rust and then pipe in exhaust fumes while making the repairs. I haven't decided whether to go with solder only or create a copper or steel patch to put over the holes. The "X" area will be the tough part since it is not flat.

I was planning to avoid the tank sealer if possible based on all of the horror stories you hear about it. Have any of you used the sealer successfully? What is a good one to use? How long has it been?

Thanks, Darin
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:28 10/11/18) Instead of soldering, how about using JB weld? Much safer to do.
I had a Case SC that had a very lose, wobbly crank shaft pully that I fixed with JB weld. That was 18 years ago and it?s still holding up.
If you want to beef up the gas tank repair you add fiberglass cloth to the JB weld material.
Jim
Click to expand...
I have done this on gas tanks successfully, and would do it again. My '49 VAC has a cracked block that I repaired with JB Weld 35 years ago an it hasn't leaked a drop.
 
I would use the two part epoxy kits designed for fuel tanks. But I am afraid of hot flames and gas tanks.!! I have had very good results from that in the past. I have never "red coated" a gas tank. I've read more good than bad concerning that type of tank liner/repair. I believe the important thing is to follow the instructions on cleaning preparations and application. gobble
 
POR-15 is the only tank sealer I will use. I have done a number of tanks with it and as long as you follow the directions and don't try to take short cuts it works great. Don't waste you time or money with cheap kits from one of the "parts" stores. JB weld the holes an seal it that tank will last for years.
 
I agree on the POR-15. I've been using it for years with no problems. You can get it as a kit, Cleaner, etcher and sealer. Follow directions and, it will work.
 
As far as soldering (or brazing which I prefer) on a fuel tank goes, warm up a modern car that runs right and pipe the exhaust into the tank. Or if you're rich use a welding shield gas. So long as there's no flammables and no oxygen around and assuming you're using a neutral flame on an oxy-acetylene torch (which also exhausts stable gas, mainly water and CO2), no possibility of explosion or even fire where you don't want it.
 
I researched the POR 15 and if I end up using a sealer that seems to be the one to use. I am still hoping to solder or braze the holes if possible. There is still one local guy here that repairs old radiators and gas tanks so I will have him take a look and see what he thinks.

Here is a picture of the inside of the tank. I have not done anything to the inside other than rinse it out.
25180.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:58 10/13/18) I researched the POR 15 and if I end up using a sealer that seems to be the one to use. I am still hoping to solder or braze the holes if possible. There is still one local guy here that repairs old radiators and gas tanks so I will have him take a look and see what he thinks.

Here is a picture of the inside of the tank. I have not done anything to the inside other than rinse it out.
25180.jpg
Click to expand...
I wish any of mine looked that good inside. :)
 
Well, there's definitely been water standing in it. Not surprising after all these years. Recommended procedure is to take a good tight tank--that is, after it's been repaired--and then put sealer in that. Then you can forget about it unless someone uses it for target practice.
 
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