G148 Head rebuild and questions.

I installed new liners and Piston heads / rings. I cleaned the surface of the block and checked for defects and level etc. I also checked the liners for proper protrusion all around before installing the head.

I torqued the head in sequence of the manual to the correct specs as best as possible. I had a hell of a time getting on a few of the nuts with the crows foot and torque wrench without it wanting to slip. Clearance there is terrible not a fan of that design at all. Stupidly I did not get new head studs.

I got it all buttoned up and went to start it and the starter with a tight engine showed its weakness so out with the starter and cleaned and installed new brushes.

Two questions here I filled the cooling system with water just in case for some reason I had to drain back out. I noticed on the carb side of the block slight moisture in two spots tiny drop of water. Prob a dumb question but I'm going to ask anyways.

Should I removed the head and get new studs and nuts ? Will this have ruined my head gasket and will I need another ? Would this seal itself once the engine was fired for the first time from heat and expansion ? Also I did not use any type of gasket sealer on the head or gasket before installing. The book didn't call for it should I have ?

Water level in rad didn't drop, I also check the oil and cracked the drain plug to make sure my liners were not leaking I also before putting the pan on filled the cooling system to ensure no leaks around liners.

I did the valve lash according to the book and specs, gaped the plugs and the points, did the timing on D.C. 1342. It wouldn't fire. I checked the plugs for fuel and spark they were drier than I expected and spark did seem a little weak to me. I am going to compression check the cylinders now after the rebuild this I didn't do I took for granted everything would be great. It gets frustrating after all the time, cash and money spent to be back to troubleshooting. I know I just got to get back to the basics and start ruling things out one at a time, just figuered I would look for any tips, advise or possible abuse from my oversight on head studs.

My gut tells me to take the head off and get new studs and redo it all but maybe it can be saved from this point. Thanks for the input

Ran for about 3mins and that small weep is gone. So I ran a few times for a couple mins each to get some temp goin and was trying get carb dialed in a bit. It will run steady now, I have to go back as soon as I get my torque adapter to ensure a better result and fire up and retorque head and check valve lash again.

It does have a miss not exactly sure what's causing at this moment. Will run till hot re torque do valves and then go from there see if miss is still present or clears up. It's making a slight pop through exhaust every once in while. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it. Also if anyone knows where a fella can track down a 320 Terratrac radiator I would be happy. The guy before me has an aftermarket in it. It's taller and nose cap doesn't fit. I hate that.

Joe

I've not replaced studs and nuts either but weak, overstretched studs can be a problem. I would put that on the back burner for now.

I would go with John's retorque. In lieu of the proper torque extension lose the crowsfoot and use a box end extension on the side nuts. Review the torque info at the link. Run the engine to op temp and than retorque.

If still leaking, inspect the head gasket closely. Flaws evolving the top deck and head can show up on the gasket where it is not compressed evenly. New studs, nuts and gasket. I use dry gasket, some like sealers like copper coat.

Compression check on new, unseated rings is meaningless, a waste of time.

Joe

• Link

And special tools for getting at those head nuts close to the head besides a crows foot?

pkreuter's ebay tool will work fine, you need a 11/16" box end. Original tool looks like the pic.

Whatever tool you decide on, if there is an extension other than 90 degs or directly vertical to the center of the fastener head, you need to compensate for leverage. The link I posted above will calculate the correct input torque for you.

Joe