Some 1370 questions

Finally got some time to work on the 1370 I bought a couple months back. Several questions.

1) Cylinder #6 isn"t firing. Figures, why couldn"t it be #1 .. not under the air filter box? Anyhow, I tested with a crayon on the exhaust manifold close to the head and after a few minutes running all melted quick except #6 which was cold to the touch even. I assume it is an injector problem. How best do I test this?

2) Got an exhaust manifold leak, cylinder #3. Best to get parts through local CaseIH dealer or is there a reputable place online to buy simple parts like those gaskets? Local dealer is over an hour away. I"ll replace all 6 when at it as well as the donut at the turbo.

3) Same question with water pump - it"s leaking at the shaft. Where to buy?

4) There is oil coming down the block from the turbo. The turbo is so caked in oil that I can"t see where the leak is coming from. It doesn"t appear to be at the inlet fitting. My other 1370, a future restoration project, has a like-new turbo on it, clean as a whistle no pun intended. Best to repair the old leaky one or change out or how much is new turbo since if bad I will need to get one more someday as I want both tractors in good running shape eventually. I can hear the turbo whine under load, but not nearly as loud as I remember on the "old" 1370 I ran. That one sounded like it was going to suck in the hood.

5) I"m assuming and hoping I can get to #6 injector without removing fiberglass cowl (did that once years ago to old 1370, was a real bear), but by removing air filter box, is that right?

6) Last one. The clutch (ok inching pedal ) engages at the very top of the stroke, just as you feel like you should slide your foot off. Looked up under dash and the adjustment nut on the rod into the tranny is right in the middle of the threads. Any problems with adjusting that to where clutch engages more like 2/3rds of the way up the throw? Is this indicative of another problem?

Appreciate the help. Got about 10 other minor things to do to this one, all pretty quick and simple though .. famous last words!

Barry, I am slow at typing, you should only ask one question at a time, LOL. The non firing #6 could be several things, yes a injector, could be a injection pump problem with a blown copper ring in the plunger. Could be a compression problem, broken rings or a valve issue. Next the exhaust leak,remove the manifold and closely inspect it , might need a new manifold or at the very least the old one planed. Water pump, get a CaseIH reman or equivilent. Turbo, make sure to install BOTH air filters new and that the air induction system is clean. Make sure the oil inlet and outlet are not leaking. Quite often that kind of leak is caused by a very badly restricted air inlet making the engine try to suck the oil out of the turbo. NEVER remove the fiberglass cowl from a cab tractor. Trying to do so screws up the way the rest of the hood fits. Working around it can be a pain but easier than removing it and trying to readjust everything else. Can adjust the clutch linkage on either end with in reason, just make sure when you are finished the clutch releases(surge) before the pedal hits the floor and when the pedal is up all the way the inching spool is pushed all the way down in the valve. You have alot going on here if you want to talk sometime, call 507 926 5229 after 7pm, Rod.

Thanks Rod. I will be working on it some more tomorrow and Sunday off and on. How do I test for plugged injector or another injector problem before I pull it? If that tests out OK, then I assume next step is find a way to get compression test done, but not exactly sure how, never done it on a diesel before.

Interesting note, it puffed black smoke pretty good when I bought it. Still does. But, I pulled the outer air filter out and have only run it maybe an hour in dry conditions with snow on ground since then, and no more oil running down side of block from turbo. Maybe turbo is OK and air filters plugged? If I replace both filters and make sure inlet/outlet are tight and not leaking and no further leak, reasonably safe to assume turbo is OK?

Will take advice and not remove the fiberglass col, thanks.

Understood on the clutch linkage adjustment, will heed the advice.

Most worrisome problem to me right now is diagnosing and fixing #6 cylinder not firing. May need some help on that one, will call if I do. Thanks again.

Though now that I made it sound like plugged filters, it still puffs a lot of black smoke. Maybe partly because one cylinder misfiring. But removing filters, both of them, made zero difference on black smoke. But seems it is not flowing oil out now, but sure did before.

Sure don't want to out guess you guys, but if you pull the valve cover on the back head you can check valve train on #6. Neighbor had trouble with push rods on a 504 in a 2670.

Yes you can get at the rear injector if you take out the filter can, Yes, it's a pain. And check the valve clearance while you're in there.
Smoke. Some of these things do just smoke. Timing can affect smoke. Mine is best about 28 degrees advance.

To diagnose #6 start with the easy things. First check all the tappets, that means removing the dreaded air filter housing but if you have a factory service manual it shows the procedure its not that bad. Checking the tappets gives you the chance to see if there are any damaged springs or pushrods. If that is OK and problem is still there loosen #6 fuel line on pump, make sure it is loose by tapping line after nut is loose. Now Pump fuel hand pump vigorously, if fuel leaks out of
loosened fitting while pumping, the injection pump needs repair. If that is OK, remove injector. They can be tough and you will probably bend or damage it during removal. Turning and twisting it a little while preying it out seems to help. Replace injector and if problem still is there that means low compression due to broken rings and you know what that means, good luck. Rod.

I would pull the kill cable and crank the engine and see if it cranks even. If compression is weak in cylinder it should speed up when that cyl. comes up on compression. The oil leak on the turbo might be unburnt fuel from bad cylinder. To test injector swap with one of the others and see if miss moves.
If any of this helps I can use tip money! Lol