300 gas tractor

dtubbs

Member
My neighbor has a 300 gas row crop & can't find the operators manual. The hydraulic fluid needs to be changed. Isn't there also another system for the rear end. What type of fluid or oil do these take & what are the capacities. We use hy- tran in our 800 & I think type A in the rear.

Thanks,

Dennis
 
Dennis

HyTran is a good choice for hydraulic fluid in the 300. If the 300 is a standard 4 speed, the capacity listed is 14 quarts. If the tractor has a triple range (12 speed) the capacity is listed at 12 quarts. Drain plug is below the shifter at the aft segment of the torque tube. Fill plug/dipstick is on the triple range top-plate.

The transmission/differential holds 13 quarts, and the operators manual calls for gear lube. I use 80w90. The drain plug is in the rear on the right side of the differential, adjacent to the front attach point for the drawbar. Fill plug/dipstick is under the seat just aft of the main shifter plate.

Others here use hytran in the transmission/differential as well. In my opinion, these old tractors leak bad enough that using a lighter weight oil only compounds the problem, so I stick with the manufacturers recommendation. From a lubrication standpoint, I suspect either product is fine.
 
Joe

Thank you so much. Your info is exactly what I was looking for. My neighbor will be very happy.

Thanks Again,

Dennis
 
Joe you need to consider the model of 300 for transmission/differential oil capacity. Model 310 ~15 qts, model 311 ~28 qts.

I prefer the heavier gear oil in the transmission also.

Joe
 
You're right. I did a quick look in the operators manuals and focused in on the utility tractors only early this morning and headed out the door. Sorry about that….

The manuals for the 300 Roundnose and 300B stipulate the following:

General Purpose: 5 Gal
Utility: 13 Qrt

There seems there are a number of capacities over the full production run of the Rock Island tractors.

If I remember correctly 5 gal was not enough to reach the full line on the dipstick when I replaced the gear lube in my 312, but I don't know if it is any different than the 311.

The early 430/530 general purpose call for 6 Gal. The later 430 calls for 26 Qrt.

The 351, 500B/600B and 630 all call for 11 Gal.
 
The general purpose tractor 311 transmission is 2-1/2 - 3" taller than the 310 utility. The axle housings are in the same position on both transmissions as measured from the bottom up.

Both tractors use the same dipstick measuring from the top of the transmission down so the oil level in the 311 has to be about 3 inches higher to reach the full mark on the dipstick. That floods the axle housings accounting for almost double the amount of oil required. The utility 310 axles are not flooded when the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick. There are grease zerks on the axles to lube the outboard bearing.

The manuals vary capacity for the same tractor in the service and operating manual. The operating manual for 300B 400B even states the capacities backward for the 300B utility & general purpose tractors.

Case manuals are generally pretty accurate in service manuals less so in operator manuals. But all a round very poor in hydraulic and power steering for 300 300B.

Joe
 
Interesting. I've never had one of the utility variants. I knew there were some differences but didn't realize the rear castings were that different between the general purpose and utility models.
 
Joe & Joe

Thanks for the additional info on the 300. I have one more question. My neighbor wants to put some type of heater on the tractor for better winter starts. Tractor only has a 6 volt system & turns over very slowly any time of year but still manages to start but not very well in the cold weather. Only thing I have found that could work well would be a lower radiator hose heater. I don't see a plug for a block heater & tank heaters work great but he would like to keep it simple. Haven't heard anything good about magnetic heaters. Also the lower radiator tube/hose on his 300 is metal w/a short rubber hose which isn't long enough to install a heater on it meaning part of the metal tube would have to be cut off to fit the heater. I guess the tube could be removed & replaced w/a rubber hose. I haven't looked to see how the tube is connected to the radiator though. What do you guys think.

Thanks.
Dennis
 

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