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Case Tractors Discussion Forum

Case DC rebuild questions

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07-31-2013 10:24:55

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Hi everyone,

I am in the process of freshening up the DC. It is a 1953 model year with the 4 inch pistons. I just got the head back from the machine shop. However, when checking the rods and pistons I found some real bad Babbitt on #3 and 4. My question is.... We have several rods left over from some DC's we had years ago. The Babbitts are near perfect. Will I be ok using rods from another DC as long as I shim them correctly? Money is a little tight right now, and I really can't afford to get all new babbits. The crank looks good no scouring that I can see.
Here are the pics of the rods. The bearing caps look perfect... But the rod side is another story

third party image


third party image


third party image


third party image

Also, when pulling the pistons out of the block the stamped numbers and piston clamp screws were facing the cam side of the engine. My I&T manual says they should be installed facing away from the cam. How should they go back in???
Thanks for the insight guys. I've been around engines for a little while, but this is my first rodeo with the DC's.


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08-02-2013 12:49:17

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 Re: Case DC rebuild questions in reply to munson1086, 07-31-2013 10:24:55  
I have put some pretty pitted sleeves back in with new o rings and never had a sealing problem. I would recommend pulling the sleeves to replace the oring as well as clean the literally 10 lbs of sediment and rust flakes from around #3 and #4. The stuff really packs in there. I would be worried about overheat problems if I didn't clean that stuff out. I have also never broke a sleeve pulling them, but have bent the heck out of my home made sleeve puller on some really stubborn sleeves.

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07-31-2013 18:41:54

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 Re: Case DC rebuild questions in reply to munson1086, 07-31-2013 10:24:55  
Thanks guys!
I'm still contemplating pulling the sleeves. There are no leaks that I can see. I have had water in the block for two days with no visible leaks in the crank case. I'm really torn - don't want to chance breaking a sleeve if thy aren't leaking but at the same time don't want to have to tear this down again in a years time.
Any thoughts on how the pistons were installed? Seems they were in backwards according to the I&T manual. Should I put them back in the way they came out or put them back in according to the manual??
Thanks for all the help guys. I'm just an old farm kid trying to bring the ol girl back to life :).

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Ron Sa

07-31-2013 22:09:18

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 Re: Case DC rebuild questions in reply to munson1086, 07-31-2013 18:41:54  
I have put used rods in my DCs with no problems.

I would think twice about pulling those sleeves if the sleeves are still useable and not leaking at the oring.

The area in the oring groove above the oring has the typical crud and pits that forms on the walls of the cooling system. Those grooves MUST be cleaned and they are hard to scrape and clean. If there are pits, the new oring may not seal.

After thoroughly cleaning the oring groove, I put a non hardening gasket sealer on the surface of the oring groove. This tends to fill the pits.

I also recommend using a berry hone on the cylinder walls and install new piston rings

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wilson ind

07-31-2013 14:45:10

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 Re: Case DC rebuild questions in reply to munson1086, 07-31-2013 10:24:55  
I have used rods from other DC abd CC motors several times. In addition while the head is off and pistons out the sleeves should be pulled and new o rings to keep water and oil seperate. Don livinston and john salie both have new old stock o rings for your tractor. The o ring is problamatic of that series motor and should always be part on any repair when pistons are out and head off

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07-31-2013 15:16:36

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 Re: Case DC rebuild questions in reply to wilson ind, 07-31-2013 14:45:10  
Also make sure you pull the camshaft out and install the thrust washer behind the cam gear that is most likely gone. Don L has them in brass. Changing rods not a problem, but make sure the crank is not flat.

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