I said we would leave this tractor in its work clothes but pressure from the higher ups (wife+daughter) have changed plans. The tractor will be pulling a wedding party trailer and I agree now maybe it is do for a freshening up. I have not done this for almost 20 years but my plans are to sand blast hood, fenders and wheels with a good wash and degreassing to the chassis. Will use Case-IH paints and hardener. Parts store guys recommend a product called XIM flashbond as a chassis primer. Need a good set of decals for a late 430. Any suggestions for decals and anything I should do or don't do in my painting plans. This tractor will be a daily driver so I don't need a show quality finished product. Thanks for any input, Rod.
- Thread starter 1370rod
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Don't know how you got the wedding party trailer idea sold but I suggested that for my daughter's wedding in Nov. and it got a big thumbs down from Wife and Daughter. Probably had to do something with the 6-7 miles down I-10 in the middle of Houston to go from the church to the reception venue I guess. (<:
I used Maple Hunter decals on my 630 recently and they look great!!
There is a trick to putting them on easily without bubbles. If you don't know the Windex trick my mail is open and I would be more than happy to share that with you.
Jim
I used Maple Hunter decals on my 630 recently and they look great!!
There is a trick to putting them on easily without bubbles. If you don't know the Windex trick my mail is open and I would be more than happy to share that with you.
Jim
Bill talbert
Member
Rod decals maple hunter! Leave the flash bond on the shelf! Clean it really good ! Sand blast the parts that remove easy and use an epoxy primer sealer before top coating! Any other question on body and paint ?? Be glad to offer my knowledge! Bill
I have only installed them dry, but I watched a fella spray a solution on the back of a decal and the surface where he wanted it. He applied the decal and then squeegeed over it removing the solution. Heck for all I know it could have been windex. Did I describe the process correctly? Rod.
Have been putting decals on wet for years, I use a light soapy water in a spray bottle, spray the area, apply the decal and squeege it. You can shove the air bubbles right out the side this way and before much squeegeing is done you can even shift the decal a bit. Just be cautious you don't shift the decal while squeegeing when just starting. A regular plastic squeege like for body putty works well.
mEl
Bill talbert
Member
Rod epoxy-primer sealer is applied before your topcoat or color coat! prep sheetmetal so its ready just as the rest of the tractor! epoxy primer sealer fuction is to provide topcoat adhesion. I use a ppg products on tractors ! shop line. easy to use! Bill
Bill talbert
Member
everyone adventure painting tractors will vary! its no different than doing cars! still need to sand or scuff old paint to get new paint to stick! getting grease free is the biggest challenge! good luck!! cannot count off the top of my head how many I have painted! not bragging either! BILL
Exactly correct Mel, a sign guy taught me this to put on vinyl lettering. He used a 50% Windex and 50% water solution but 100% windex works OK too. Guess he was just trying to stretch his dollars a bit but for one tractor it doesn't take much.
On the long ones for the tin work I tacked the top of the decals down with painters masking (blue) tape and used small tape bits to allow me to get them on straight and then put a solid strip across the top so I coud lift the decal up and spray then peel off the decal backing. Carefully work the decal down with the squeege (not to heavily). Pull off the masking tape and carefully start peeling of the top paper from the decal working the decal down with the squeege just in front of the top paper as you peel. BE VERY careful around F, E, A etc. as these try to come up. If the do they can be worked back down. Once the top paper is off work out the water bubbles with the squeege. I they won't come out, usually very small ones, you can pierce them with a sewing needle and work out the liquid and stick them down with the squeege.
Jim
On the long ones for the tin work I tacked the top of the decals down with painters masking (blue) tape and used small tape bits to allow me to get them on straight and then put a solid strip across the top so I coud lift the decal up and spray then peel off the decal backing. Carefully work the decal down with the squeege (not to heavily). Pull off the masking tape and carefully start peeling of the top paper from the decal working the decal down with the squeege just in front of the top paper as you peel. BE VERY careful around F, E, A etc. as these try to come up. If the do they can be worked back down. Once the top paper is off work out the water bubbles with the squeege. I they won't come out, usually very small ones, you can pierce them with a sewing needle and work out the liquid and stick them down with the squeege.
Jim
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