Case SC: What Should I Look For?

SuperABen

Member
I am getting ready to take a look at a Case SC tractor from around 1949. No eagle hitch, but good tires, runs, and (supposedly) has good sheet metal. Asking around 500 for it.

I'm a Farmall man, and rather new to Case. Beyond the prices of sheet metal, anything I should pay attention for on these models? Any known weak spots or expensive items to fix or replace that like to jump ship? My goal for the machine is to get it mechanically sound and cosmetically good to like-new for show, work or resell. I'm not too new to the game, just new to Case itself and this particular model. I look forward to hearing your advice!

Ben W. in VA
 
They are very tough tractors. Fenders are bad about rusting out. Can't find parts for those Case magnetos. It might have been converted to a distributor system. Farmall distributors will work on it. Check the engine block for freeze damage. Behind the carburetor is the most common place for cracks in block. Brakes might be stuck is it has been sitting. I'm in Wytheville, VA.
 
if you buy the sc ,you will stay with ihc , yes .the Sc are good tractors,, but if you get a DC , you will stay away from your ihc
 
I have to admit, j hikemper, that once you mentioned that the SC is staying with Farmall, I was intrigued. I do know that Case scrounged parts from other manufacturers, as in the V series, so what's the relationship with IHC and the SC?

Ben W.
 
The SC is the Farmall equivalent of the "H". Comparing an SC and a DC is like comparing a Farmall H with an M. They are roughly the same size body, but there is around 100 cubic inches difference in the engine size.
 
He is basically saying that the DC's performance is exceptional, but the SC's performance is nothing special. A lot of case people look down on the pre-1953 case SC tractors. It isn't that there are any real problems, but they don't have the "spirit" of the VAC and DC.
 
yeah but an sc is alot handier around the farm than a clumbsy a$$ dc, look underneath for a cracked main case from a broken or doubled up chain and for a cracked block on the carb. side
 
The oil bath clutch is what makes these tractors special to operate. However not easy to work on these clutches. Rest of tractor easy as a lawnmower to work on. Be real critical of the clutch, if it slips or won't kill the engine in third standing on the brakes pass it by. Sounds like scrap price though
 
The oil bath clutch is about bullet proof easy to adjust with the simplest tools. but if your worried about it there is a inspection cover on the side that will give you a good visual
 
You should look for a '53 or '54 SC with eagle hitch. (<:

We had a '53 when I was a kid and the Xtra hp made it a pretty good tractor, could have used a 5 speed transmission though.

Jim
 
Christopher, thank you for the explanation: I had never heard of IHC supplying parts to Case during Case's letter series, so I was prepared for all sorts of new information!

I do have to say that the humor of the original comment completely escaped me. This is probably since he was referring to an SC as close to IHC only because it wasn't the greatest of Case models. I'll forgive a comment like that once, now, but not again! ~grins~

All the tractor brand jokes aside, I will grant you Case folks that the reputation of the D series and V series precedes you. I look forward to seeing a Case as a possible project!

Thank you for the input.
 
Todd, I appreciate the heads up about the clutch.

What am I looking for by trying to stall the engine in third with the brakes? For the record, I'm assuming we're meaning that the brakes are A+. Am I wanting the clutch not to slip, causing the engine to be stalled by the brakes? For clarification, if the brakes are good, and the engine continues running while the brakes are applied in third, the clutch has issues that cannot be corrected without replacement?

Thanks for helping me make sure I have the right picture in my mind!

Ben W.
 
Case SC tractors are very well built. I parted one out a number of years ago and was very impressed with the quality of workmanship. The SC had live PTO and Hydraulics back in the late 40's. Very ahead of it's time. Rebuild kits are very expensive. One of my customers from Arizona told me that new they can cost up to 900.00 for a kit. You obviously know a lot about tractors, so take a good look at it, but a 500.00 you can't go wrong. Even if you have to part it out, the tractor if it has wheel weights weighs close to 4200 lbs. I have lots of parts books for this tractor in my Flee Bay store if you do buy it.
802-782-2409
 
clutches give very little trouble, is adjustable and HyCapacity can rebuild the disk if needed, repairing it requires a tractor split, the same as most any other tractors
 
Engine bearings are hard to find new. Don Livingston can have your main and rod bearing shells remanufactured to any underside you want, but I stick to standard undersizes. I have six SC's rebuilt with mains and rods from him. I have had 3 1/2" sleeves rebored to 3 5/8" and 3 5/8" sleeves rebored to 3 11/16". They must be in the block when bored. Boring to 3 5/8" gives the same engine as a '52-'54. No '52-'54 sleeves are available. You will have to change blocks, have new sleeves made somewhere, or bore and sleeve your old sleeve for '52-'54's. These engine blocks have a different kind of seal at the bottom of the block. All other engine parts interchange.
 

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