311 hydraulic leaks

But toward the end of the vegetable season the leak suddenly got a lot worse, so the fluid is practically running out; it drips from what the online parts catalog calls the "radius rod pivot bracket."

Can anyone tell me which seal has probably failed? How should one get at it? Anyone have any helpful pictures? Is there anything else that should be done while it is open?

Problem #2: The previous owners also tell me the hydraulics have leaked into the transmission cavity for a long time, but more slowly. What is likely the problem, and how should I decide whether to bother fixing this?

Thanks again this time for your help.

Mark

The "radius rod pivot bracket" may be the rear pivot bracket for the front axle that is attached to the bottom front of the torque tube. If the hyd leak is not running down the side of the torque tube and dripping off the bracket than the leak is thru the main drive shaft and/or hyd pump drive shaft seals in the tach drive housing. See pic #1. Pop off the timing hole cover on the right side of the bell housing and see if it is oil wet in there.

Joe Y covered the most likely cuprit in migration of hyd oil into the transmission via the hitch piston seals but it can also leak via the drive shaft front seal in the transmission and/or pto shaft seal at the rear of the transmission (as mine does). See pic #2. These seals are generally slow leaks that may be progressive with wear. Do the easy one on the hitch piston seals first. You might want to leave the shaft seals alone unless it is excessive leakage. Mine leaks about a gal a year, somewhat relieved by occasionally running the pto to exercise the rear seal while uaing the tractor for other things.

Joe

Problem # 1 involves 2 seals, G10421 and G10422. Hope the picture helps. Tractor will have to be split to replace. Lee

Can't help you with problem number 1.... I don't know where the "radius rod pivot bracket" is located.... Can you describe the location or post a picture.

Problem number 2 is an easy fix.

1. Remove the seat by removing four 3/8" bolts at it's base.
2. Remove the Eagle hitch arms by removing the 3/8" bolts and caps from each end of the rockshaft. 3. Disconnect the hydraulic levers from the transmission top plate by backing out the Rod/bolt the levers pivot on.
4. Disconnect the eagle hitch hydraulic line that is plumbed into the left side of the transmission top plate.
5. Remove the eleven 3/8" bolts holding the transmission top plate / rockshaft housing in place.
6. Lift the top plate off of the tractor, and slide the rock shaft out of the housing , which will allow the connecting rod and piston to be removed.
7. Replace the o-rings and/or scrapers and re-assemble

The entire job should take less than an hour if you have the right parts ahead of time. The problem is you will not know which piston you have until you disassemble it. Case made a number of different pistons over the years that have a variety of different o-rings and scrapers. Some rubber, some steel and some nylon. Some pistons only had o-rings other have a combination.

Be sure to replace the gasket between the top plate/rockshaft housing and the transmission. The original part number was G10462 which now subs to 1342376C1. - Joe

The leak is more like a stream now and so I do need to fix it.

I'm just trying to use the parts book terms: I would call the parts "the diagonal braces from the front axle that attach to a cast iron bracket under the engine." The oil is pouring from the bottom of the bracket but I sure don't know where it is coming from. But the tractor will need to be split, right?

And the news on problem 2 is good: that doesn't sound too bad, even for me!

Mark