Case 444 Mower

mshultz

Member
I'm looking at buying a case 444 garden tractor with a mower. We had an older one when I was a kid, but don't remember much about it. The one I'm looking at is the newer style case that's total orange tinwork with white decals. It looks decent, but the guy said the PTO clutch is either out or getting weak.

I've looked around online and it appears that the "newer" models had an easily adjustable clutch, while the "older" models had one that was more difficult with shims and what not. Do you suppose since it is the newer paint scheme that it would be the easier one to adjust? Are replacement parts expensive if it would need new discs (or whatever is in them...).

They guy wants $700 for it including a mower deck. That seems reasonable to me, but I don't want to get a couple hundered wrapped up in this clutch deal. Anything specific I should be looking at that would also be expensive to fix?

Thanks for any and all replies!

Mike
 
I prefer the older shim adjusted clutch, both work OK. Garden tractor forum on this site is helpful, also Case Ingersoll Colt Forum.
 
A tractor with a true hydro is MUCH less annoying than that stupid hydraulic drive used on those tractors.

Pray to (insert name of deity of choice here) that you are never on a downhill slope steep enough to make it outrun the hydraulics!

(YES, I know the problem was supposedly addressed on the later units, but a true hydro is still WAY better!)
 
If it doesn't have the holding valve they can be found. I just would pay less is all. As far as the hydraulic drive I had 3 Case/Ingersolls and never had a nickels worth of problems. Used to pull them in the true garden tractor class and nver pulled less than second. Don't run down the drive system. It sure beats a drive belt 10 ways to Sunday.
 
I agree they will run away down hill but try to run a tiller or a Hydra-cutter with your hydro tractor, there are pro's and con's to both, I myself much perfer the compact tractor's Case made compared to a MTD or other generic unit different strokes guess thats why the make different ones
 
I would say it is an easy adjust clutch. I have rebuilt them before and it isn't that hard to do if you follow the directions exactly. The Case/Ingersoll forum on Yahoo has a lot of manuals and the directions to rebuild one. To me $700 is a little high. I would think between $300-$500 would be more resonable considering the clutch situation. I have mowed down a hill with a mower with the holding valve and a mower without a holding valve. The holding valve really works and you don't have to think as much, but it can be done without the holding valve in the retard position, but you have to be careful and don't use the brake because it will shift it into netural position and away you go.
 

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