Up Date- Case POWERCEL Combustion Chambers

Adirondack case guy · Mar 21, 2011

A week or so ago someone posted about coolant leaking into crankcase from heads/pre combustion chambers. I ran across this today in a peice of Case 500 lit. My good friend mEl explained the importance of renewing thes cells when doing an overhaul or any head work. The lit explains how they work, but does not mention the importance of how critical it is to have the two halves of the fuel cell mate together so combustion does not leak between them and erode holes directly into the cooling jacket of the head. The fuel cell is comprised of 3 parts. (1) the threaded cap, which is visible on the outside of the head. (2) the fuel cell cap which forms the outer half of the cell. and (3) the one peice funnel shaped volocity tube and inner half of the pre combustion chamber which is pressed into the head when aligned with a small stablizing pin in the head. If the drawing is unclear to anyone feel free to ask questions and I will elaborate. Sorry for the small print, I made it as big as I could.

REDHORSE · Mar 22, 2011

Are the PowerCels readily available from CaseIH ? When overhauling the head, what parts of the PowerCel are re-usable and which parts should be replaced ? Injectors too or are they OK to re-use.

Mike in Mn. · Mar 22, 2011

My service manual says to lap each half of the power cell on a flat surface with crocus cloth using mutton tallow and make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat with no pits. I have always done this and have never had one come back to bite me on an overhaul.

mEl · Mar 22, 2011

(quoted from post at 06:12:48 03/22/11) My service manual says to lap each half of the power cell on a flat surface with crocus cloth using mutton tallow and make sure the mating surfaces are clean and flat with no pits. I have always done this and have never had one come back to bite me on an overhaul.

Mike, I use 400 grit wet or dry on plate glass with oil and figure eight them till the blemishes are gone and then turn them in place to put a circular finish on them. When I am done with them the caps when perfectly dried, no film or anything on the mating surfaces will stay together with a small vacuum provided by using your finger and sucking a vacuum with your mouth and sealing it with your finger. If the cap stays on for 20-30 seconds I consider that a good seal. Your method is also very good. I, as you, have done many many heads and have no failures associated with the method. I have taken badly eroded bodies and caps and removed the etching with a lathe and then refinished them as previously described. Properly prepared heads and Injectors are the key to starting and as I stated in another post, no valve job or engine overhaul is complete without this step being done. mEl

Up Date- Case POWERCEL Combustion Chambers

Adirondack case guy

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REDHORSE

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Mike in Mn.

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mEl

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