Case model s clutch

shannon13

Member
I got my little pickup stuck yesterday and I went home and got the tractor to pull it out, I had to pull it up a hill but it wasn't overly steep. I hooked the chain up, put it in first gear and started pulling, we started moving but I think the clutch was slipping, it has a hand clutch and i tried pushing harder on that lever which seemed to help for a second or two while I was pushing really hard but didn't solve the problem. Then all of a sudden it hooked up, the front tires came off the ground and up the hill we went. It's fine when your just putting around on it but once I tried to take off in fourth and the belt pulley starts turning, the engine kinda pulls down but the tractor dosent really go. Is this the clutch slipping or could the linkage need to be adjusted, if it can even be done.
 
Have you been draining the clutch housing when you change your oil? Sometimes gunk build up on the clutch causes a problem. Yes, you can adjust the clutch. Email me and I will send you some instructions.
 
I actually haven't changed the oil yet, it had been sitting for probablly 8 to 10 years and I just got it running again a few months ago, been busy working on a shed to park it and a old international TD 6 and alot of other little projects. I will look into and try that. I would really appreciate some info on adjusting the clutch, my email is [email protected]. Thank you
 
before you change it , take loose the inspection plate on clutch and pour a qt of atf trnny fluid in there and haul a couple loads of wood or manure ,, lite duty , it will clean that motor up to ,... agreed with others ,u might have a sludgy clutch ,,that may not had been changed since it was new
 
I think I might be a little confused, are we talking about changing engine or tranny oil, is there supposed to be fluid on the clutch, how does putting ATF in the inspection hole clean the engine also or did you mean I could also put ATF in the engine oil.
 
relax , yes.and yes .because it worx . lol , search the archives about this much discussed topic for more info , lot of info there ,and keep asking ??? thats the only way you will learn ,,.wet clutch gets oil from engine,,some old sc/dc owners never knew or bothered to service this area ..
 
That's what I was wondering, I never thought it would have a wet clutch but I don't know a whole lot about them, after learning that I believe that's what it is. I checked the oil when I got it running but who knows how long it has been since it has been changed, a clutch adjustment prob wouldn't hurt. If it's a wet clutch would it matter what kind of oil you put in it, I have a few diesels so I was just going to use 15-40 because I always have that handy, should I not do that?
 
30 wt. is what 50 yr ld book calls for , however modern 15w40 should be ok , again you can research archives for much discussion info ,. email open for ph# exchange
 
Yep they have a wet clutch that is filled by way of the engine oil and they also have what is called an over center clutch which one you push/pull the clutch lever one way or the other it over centers to lock it in or out. You TD-6 also has an over center type clutch. To adjust your clutch you will be better off to get a manual since to explain it on here would be hard. Hope you can adjust it since some of those clutch parts can be hard to find if not impossible, I learned that with an SC I had a few years ago
 
I will try to find some more info on the whole wet clutch thing, my email is [email protected] if you didn't see it in the other post, wether it's email or phone calls I'm always interested in talking to peoplethat know more than me and can teach me a thing or two.
 
I noticed that, I haven't looked very hard yet but I did look on this site and I didn't find anything do a case s model clutch, I hope I don't have to replace it but if I do hopefully I can find a way to do it.
 
Back when I had my SC I ended up having to have the clutch pressure plate welded because of a couple of broken parts. I was lucky all the pieces where there just broken so I had a local machine shop repair it for me since I am not set up with the ovens needed to heat and cool the part the correct way. As I said having the manual is very important. The correct manual is the I-T C-201. I sold the tractor but kept the manual but I do like to collect manuals
 
I will have to look into some manuals, it wouldn't hurt to have one even if I didn't have to work on it, thank you for your help
 
Thew biggest reason I'm on the site is to help when and if I can. Oh by the way the SC I had was one of the later ones with the Live PTO and hand clutch and they only made them one or 2 years then switched to the foot clutch if I am remembering thing right that is. So does your have the Live PTO or is it to old for that. In some ways your better off with the older one
 
Not to be argumative however I once ruint a used car I purchased by puting atf in motor driving 20 miles before a planned oil change. Aftrt 15 miles the oil change was the least of my problems with the motor banging .
 
I'm not sure what you mean by live pto, I'm guessing that means it always engaged? From the serial number it looks like what I have is a 1944 SO model and it has a little lever there kind of under the seat to engage and disengage the pto.
 
If you have a 1944 it is not a live PTO model. Live PTO means when you disengage the clutch to stop the tractor the PTO will keep spinning with power.
 
Ok, I haven't played with the pto much because it docent have a 3pt hitch and we have a old ferguson that gets used with the brush hog and a few other attachments if anyone ever wants to play around but I'm sure your right about it not being "live"
 
Ya there was only a year or 2 that had the hand clutch and live PTO and those are hard to find some of the parts for.
 

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