300 Roundnose Power Steering Issue

In the process of restoring my 350 (351). I got a brilliant idea to add power steering to the old gal...... So I bought a system off of a 600B that the parts and service manuals all showed to be the same for the 351, 500B and 600B. After spending a ridiculous amount of money overhauling the torque motor, and then fabricating one of the steering shafts (thanks again Jim), I finally got the system "buttoned up" and working great. Great that is until I attempted to re-install the grill and hood. The following picture demonstrates the problem.


The pressure and return lines out of the pump stick out too far. Those lines won't allow the the side panels for the grill/hood to pull up correctly. The panel is at least an inch away from bolting up properly. I don't want to bend or cut the panel. Does anyone else have a pump/reservoir like the one in the picture mounted on a 300 series tractor? If so would you have a picture or two your would share that demonstrates how it is plumbed, and how the side panel is formed around the pump??? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or pictures anyone might have. - Joe

I wonder if switching to a banjo style fitting would give you enough clearance? I've included a link to a photo of one below.
Banjo Fitting

C, I read this with great interest as I am trying to add PS to my 630 and gathering parts so it was good to see the photo. Here's a question, because of the parts I have gathered I know that one of the fittings has a 3/8" NPT to screw into the pump stator (base)The other seats on an inserted JIC fitting (ferrule?). The Banjo fittings look like a definte possibility for Joe, but I don't think they make one that will screw into an NPT female and seal. I think remachining the stator is not in Joes plans. Do you know what thread options are on the non tube connection of this fitting. This looks like I good option for lots of applications on our antique toys.

Jim

He would likely have to go to a flexible hose, if he were to use a banjo fitting. I don't think he could get the pump connection to line up with the hole in the fitting unless there is a way to adjust the length of the rigid hydraulic line. He could have a banjo fitting crimped to the hydraulic hose. My biggest concern is getting a seal between the banjo fitting and the pump housing. You could put a copper crush washer between the pump housing and banjo fitting, but I'm not sure that there is a large enough flat area on the pump housing for it to seal against?

I can"t see the how the pump is mounted, can it be rotated? it looks like the upper line is the only one blocking your sheet metal. You might be able to rotate it a few degrees so that the lines would angle downward and clear your sheet metal. The breather might be off center, but it shouldn"t be too far to cause trouble.

The threads in the high pressure outlet and relief line are not compatabile with the ones on the link you attached. Are any other connections available on the fitting? I am afraid he is stuck with the ones in the Case parts, JIC and NPT. Hose VS hard piping are the least of his worries at this point I think.

PS: I am the Jim he refers to in his post so I am somewhat familiar with the project even though we "worked" on this via phone calls, email and US postal service. I would like to see this work too.

Jim

That part of Joe's engine is just like my 630, the pumps bolts to the block casting, no adjustment: what you see is what to got.

Jim

That doesn't leave a lot of options. From the looks of it, the fitting sticks out about an inch. If he needs an inch to make the sheet metal line up, that fitting needs to go away completely.

Is there room for a 3/8" thick spacer plate between the pump and block? It could have 2 sets of tapped holes, one set for the block and another set rotated by 20 degrees to accodate the pump. This might cause the drive pulley/gear to be missaligned though.

He could also consider adding a small blister to the sheet metal to accomodate the hydraulic lines. If done cleanly this could give it a very factory looking appearance.

There are lots of different styles of banjo fittings. A local hydraulics shop that I am familiar with has many different ones. Might be worth calling a local hydraulics shop regarding the problem.

Thank you Jim, Mathias NY, and C. Amick for your thoughts and replies. I can't find it in a parts manual anywhere, but I wonder if Case had a different side panel for these installations. The banjo fitting might be an excellent solution for the lower port, but the side panel needs to be nearly flush with the upper port.... A pic of another installation might indeed be worth a thousand words....

Another option I've been mulling around after reading the posts is to use the Banjo fittings and point the plumbing down or slightly forward in an attempt to get in front of the ridge that is molded into the aft section of the side panel. Then use flexible lines to go under the front of the oil pan (or even back around the rear of the motor if necessary) to get to the torque motor on the other side. In addition, one could put a second (or even third) spacer between the casting and the side rail on the pump side, which would function to "push out" the side panel another 1/4" to 1/2".

If anyone would have any additional thoughts or suggestions.... or pictures, they would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the thoughts guys.....they have been very helpful and very much appreciated. - Joe

Have you considered using a belt driven pump from a Racine built large tractor. Might be your cheapest way out. Now we can see one of the many reasons that the "b" series tractors were made wider than the 300's and also why the tin was changed

If you haven't sloved your problem -I have an industrial roundnose withfactory power steering.the pump is plumbed to the steering linkage valve with hose. I can get a breakdown of the parts if you need. I love my case - will own it till I die and then pass it to my grandson.
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