Quick question for anyone familiar with the old 530. I need to change the brakes on the unit, but I am not quite sure how much of a job it is going to be.
I have changed the brakes on an old Massey before, but not quite sure how relatable it will be to the 530 since the MF used a drum brake set-up.

Is this something a shade tree mechanic can do, or should I think about contracting it out?

Any tips would be appreciated....as long with what parts are generally replaced (e.g. can you replace just the linings, or is it best to replace the band & the drum)

Thanks,

Rich

Thanks for the link for the manual(s) and for the tip on the exhaust coupler.

I did some checking and it seems the left brake linkage isn't even pulling on the rod extending from the left brake housing (and thus does not return the pedal to the up position). I will see if I can manipulate the adjusting nuts this weekend...hopefully that fixes it; otherwise I guess I will be going in.

The backhoe manual will also be handy to help me find out why I have no lifting power on the boom.

Great Posts.....Great Forum,

Rich

Rooster, Hoss54 and others are right about the spline tearing up seals. I tried the aluminum can and plastic cup trick, but what finally worked well on my 630 and may be the same dimensionally as your 530 was a 2" OD x 2 1/2" ID exhaust swage from the auto parts store. The 2 1/2" end just did fit over the spline and the seal surface the seal lip rides on is +/- 2 1/2". I just made sure no burrs were on the swage with file and sandpaper dress up, slipped the swage on, wrapped a couple of layers of the wide boxing tape on the joint greased it up and the slid the seal right up on the side gear seal OD and the lips never saw any of the splines. Don't know if any other tractors could be so lucky as to have these proper fits.

Jim

I'm sure that you are replacing the seals, as a precaution, but if they are not leaking you do not have to remove the 2 flathead screws and the bearing quill. Many times you can mearly deglaze the discs, clean up the ramps that the balls run in, free up the linkage on the brake band,make sure band and drum portion are not rusty and install new springs. The two flathead screws serve no function other than to hold the differential quills in place during brake repair As Hoss stated the 4 brake cover bolts hold the entire assy. in place. Case had a special sleeve that slid over the splines to protect the seal when reinstalling the quill assy.One other note; If you do remove the quills there are shims between them and the trans housing that adjust diff. shaft bearing preload and ring and pinion backlash.

Thank you both for responding. I guess I am curious about how much disassembly will be required. Can everything be done through the access panels you spoke of, or do I ultimately need to pull the wheel and shaft off to remove the brake drum.

Sorry if these are silly questions.

???????Has nothing to do with wheels and there are no access covers on the 530ck. Maybe you ought to see about getting a service manual.
The brakes are in the two housings by your feet next to the floor boards.

I am doing mine now on my 310B. Not that bad of a job. 4 studs hold the cover assembly on. The studs backed out on mine, and figured it made getting the bearing retainer plate off anyway. But count on replacing the rear end fluid, if they do, so have a BIG pan ready..!! The seals are out of mine, and they are located in the bearing retainer plate. I pulled it all, so it would be easier to work on. Just be careful of the shims behind that plate. The plate fits tight, as there is a round shoulder that fits back in the rear end housing,maybe 2 1/2" to 3" to support the gear shaft bearing, and takes a bit to work it out. I used 2 crow foot bars, and worked it out alternating prying gently.. There is also a large o-ring on the retainer plate, on the shoulder going into the housing. If you take that plate out..., I'm not sure on the 530, but on the 310B there are also 2, 3/8"X 3/4" flat head machine screws, that need to come out. They are like #4 phillips (big) head. I am putting hex type back in. The old ones weren't that bad to get out, but while they are out, I'm putting the hex type (allen wrench) back in. They were 15 cents each, at my local industrial supply. Just getting ready to put the first side back on, and deciding what to use for a sleeve to slide over the splined shaft, to keep from messing up the seal... I'll let you know how it goes...

dj, you may want to look and make sure hex head bolts are not going to obstruct the assembly or function of something in the brake assembly. Case engineres wouldn't put flat head cap srews in there if there weren't necessary since it adds two machining operations in the bearing housing.

Just a cautionary thoought.

Also, 530 ck has a different set up on brakes than the hundred series and early 30 series tractors, CK has brake bands VS disks in the earlier models.

Jim

Well..., let's hope they are OK.. These are grade 5 screws. I kinda' surmised they hold the bearing retainer plate in place, until the disc housing is in place. Only to keep the retaining plate from moving out, and possibly the seal dropping in the groove, between the splines, and smooth bore, where the seal rides. The screws turned out/broke loose, with a large screwdriver, with vice-grips on the handle. So they hardly had any torque on them. And nothing stated in the shop manual, about torque specs on them. Where as the nuts on the studs are torqued to 80-90 ft. lbs., and should release any torque on the screws.. That's one of those things, where I would love to talk to the guy that designed it.. Why the groove..? And like, why wasn't the smooth bore say like an 1/8" larger than the splines, and save tons of seals from getting ruined being installed. So far, this is the first thing I've questioned, with working on it, as far as ease, and smarts building something. I'm used to working on IH's, and at least up into the 1960's models, things were designed to be easily serviced. Like maybe a LOT of input from mechanics that would be working on it. Where as on my 180 Massey I put new brakes, hydraulic pumps, and a few other items on, for a winter project... There were many things I ran across that I asked myself... What were they thinking..??

If you check closer you will find the 530ck has both band and disc. The band winds up the drum with the ball ramps that applies breaking force to the brake disc that presses against the end of the housing.

Not known to have good breaks as the mechanism usually rusts/freezes up.

These aren't hex bolts... They are flat head machine screws, identical to what came out, except they have a hex type drive, instead of a phillips type drive.

Sorry, I didn't realize the 530's had band type brakes at the time I wrote the first response. But I will post a link, in another reply.., that may help out the OP.. I found a link for a 530CK, and it has a free download of a service manual, and operators manual.

Would love to find a free download for an operators manual for my 310B. I have a parts, and service manual, but the OP manual sure would be handy to have, for fluid capacities etc...

Hoss54, these can also be a problem. On hex socket type FH cap screws the ANSI specs on the socket depth is a minimum, no max. Haven't really analysed how much force is put on these screws in use.

I used flat HD cap scews on a machine design once and they sheared in use. The screw heads sheared off and the web was very thin at the bottom of the screw heads. Hex HD so much easier to make up and take out but the Phillips, cross point or slotted screws are stronger. Don't think these screws are under a lot of stress since the nuts on the studs hold everything together, guess I need to look at my parts break down and analyze stresses.

I have been leary of hex socket flat HD cap screws since the bad experience years ago.

Jim

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It's been a while since I did mine but they are a strange system using a ball and ramp method of pressing the brake disc to the outer end of the housing that you see. I remember having problems avoiding damage to the oil seal on the inboard end (after buggering the first one up). Doesn't require any special tools but you will need to wrap some kind of seal protector on the end of the shaft to ease the seal/housing in place.

At least that's how my memory records it LOL