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1030 Overhaul ?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I tore a 1030 engine down because it had spun a rod bearing but I found 4 out of the 6 sleeves were broke on top? Is this because the sleeves were too high and the heads torqued down put too much pressure on them or was it caused by something in the block? Any ideas would be appreciated. I cleaned the upper counterbore didn't see any cracks. Thanks in advance.
 
how has the water level been holding in the radiator? probably had a few blown head gaskets and you did not realize it?.., dads 800 Case diesel did that back when i was a freshman in hi school ,.. kept getting worse and the motor needed overhauled anyway , used the 800 pumping manure,Dad told me to shut her down if i noticed water in the oil ,, Ran it ,, one day and i bet i put 10 gallon of water thru it , Sure had a lotta power coming out of that hole with WATER INJECTION !. never did get water in the oil ,. tore the motor down, and found what you describe on 2 of the cylindars perfect 1/4 inch ring at the top of sleeve ... and a CRACKED HEAD !,perhaps a stitch in time would had saved nine ... learned a lesson ..
 
Broken sleeve lips was a common problem on the 301 and 451 engine, both in the 30 and the 70 series. Maybe ether starts contributes to this? This is apparently a high stress area... Gene
 
many 30 series blocks were never seasoned properly when new,they sometimes distorted while in use affecting the counter bores and putting uneven pressure on the sleeve flange, you may have to have the top step in the block for the sleeve recut and shimmed.
 
Sounds like I should have that done to be sure they are all the same. I can look in the tech manual but do you know what the pertrusion on the sleeve should be? I'm wondering if it would work to drop the sleeve a little and run a fire ring if that would take off some of the pressure?
Thanks
 
Does it look like it's been overhauled before? I saw a technical diagram from an aftermarket overhaul kit supplier that shows the underside of the sleeve lip. If it is machined to a sharp point they have a tendency to crack. If the sleeve is machined with a rounded inside corner it is not as likely to crack. Hard to describe without drawing or picture. I'll see if I can find one on the web and post it here.
May or may not be your issue.
 
You know I looked at that landing that is cut into the block and it doesn't look like it is truly square it looks like it angles toward the sleeve, on a taper you might say.
But then again I was just eye balling it so you never know.
 
it's supposed to angle towards the sleeve so it applies pressure at the base of the sleeve flange and not the edge, machine work on case engines was mediocre in quality some sleeves are not square to the deck causing excessive radious wear on the cranks especially in 504 engines. check all variables before you reassemble.
 
TRW makes a sleeve that har a rounded stress relief groove on the top of the sleeve instead of the machined squared groove. Sleeves with the square groove cracks easy.
 
The engine should have fire rings..My overhaul kit
said if .002 to .004 of the sleeve protrudes above the block then use standard fire rings and if lower than .002 use over sized fire rings and you may have to mismatch for every sleeve..You need to make sure that the block is clean enough to turn the sleeve by hand after it is installed with no O-ring..Every sleeve will need to be checked like this and kept in order for each hole in the block before installing with the O-ring..You can't mismatch the sleeves after fitting them to the block..Been there done that..
 
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