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help case 400

F

fixer upper case 400

New User
just got my first case tractor to fix up with my dad.....looking for a pic shift pattern and is there a way to adjust the clutch...the king pin is done on one side is there a fix for it also no brakes ...any help would be great
 
The shift pattern tag is easy, we stock new ones. The clutch is adjusted with the linkage rod hooked to the pedal. Lengthen the rod out till you get about 2" of free travel with the pedal. However, the clutch could still be worn out. The brakes are adjustable by taking up the rods coming out of each cover. Again, they could be in need of serious repair also. Good luck.
 
thanks alot ....who has new ones(shift pattern) do you no what type of gear and hydro oil is used in there it looks the same to me ....and its all milky
 
If the oil is milky, it means water. Change it out, wash the Hyd. filter. 85W140 gear oil for the tranny & rear end. Hy-tran, or something similar (Trans.-Hyd. Fluid) for the Hyd. housing. We stock the shift pattern tags here.
 
oh i thought the gear and hyd was the same thing cause the oil looks the same in the loader ...MILK...i look for the shift pattern tags on the site under case 4000 but did not find them .....your way more help then the dealer over here...i went there a few days ago to get some help with this thing and they just brushed me offf sayn that its to old..so i i can run tanny oil in the hyd pump...it will be used alot in the winter -35
 
Sounds like your local dealer is either a New Holland dealer or formerly International ag equipment. John will always be a wealth of information and can get most stuff you will need.

Your Case dealer is flat wrong on the fluids too, don't listen to him. John has the right info. Get the milky stuff out as it is contaminated with water and will eventually ruin your transmission/differential and hydraulic system.
 
Im curently scraping my 55 case 400 if your looking for good parts(sheet metal/rebuilt wide front) send me an email
 
thankyou very much...ya the deal is a case international dealer but the guy a the parts desk did not give a sh*t i told him that it was my firsttractor and me and my dad are going to restore it and he still didnt care....thanks again for your help ryan
 
I would say to use CASE-IH Hy-trans but it is EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!! I use the farm supply store "Mid-states" which will say something on the label about recommended for CASE-IH blah blah blah... The hytrans and equivalent oils have anti-foaming agents in them that the universal fluids do not, as well as mine seem to run a bit cooler with it and it don't bubble out the shifters on my 1030. Last time I checked OEM hytrans was about $50 for 5 gallons, and the brand I use is about $35, and when my 1030 holds 16 gallons, well do the math! I would use 80W-90 in the trans as if you are getting cold like it does here when 0* is a heat wave as it won't like to move at first.
 
Im located outside Green Bay, WI let me know what ur interested in and i can send u pics of the parts I have
 
thanks for the help do you think 75 90 would be good for the gears it synthetic..was told it could wreck the seals cause old seal were not made to handle syn oil....i have alot of 75 90 thats why
 
Synthetic oils are great (AMSOIL is anyway) and synthetics itself won't necessarily wreck the seals. The problem is usually that the seals are bad anyway and the dirt/sludge from the old oils are keeping the seals from leaking. The synthetics (especially in the engines) clean all the crud out and then the weak seals are exposed. In the winter you'll love synthetics.

As far as the milky fluids go.. as others have stated you've got water in there. You should look for where the water is getting in. Shifter boots are most likely the culprit but if someone has taken the trans/rear end covers off and didn't use new gaskets or seal them well they can leak there too. If it doesn't sit outside its not as big of a deal. Good luck.
 
thanks man........we use syn in almost everything over here ans it sure sure is great in the winter...the tractor was sitn out side for the last 10 year i would guess,but now at its new home she will be inside
 
The other thing too I might add is I found out the rear axle seals are $62 each, they are a double lip seal with a felt wiper too in one piece. Mine is also a diesel. The thing with synthetics compared to dinosaur oil is it does not change viscosity because of temperature. Put synthetic in, there are not a lot of seals to make leak on that transmission, 2 axle, 2 brake, and one input.
 
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