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Discussion Forum
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Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17

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steve

02-06-2003 19:50:59




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the voltage regulator makes the generator charge the battery, it does not make it start or run. if the battery is charged that is the first step. you should have 12 volts going to the key switch. the switch puts 12 volts to the start button. when you push the button you put 12 volts to the starter solenoid and it "clicks". do you here the click. check the wires to the key and button to see if you have voltage. maybe one of them is bad.
step two, you could try to jumper the solenoid. MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL. find the solenoid, small silver cylinder that the big wire on the starter connects to. the other side of the solenoid goes to the battery. when you engage the solenoid the two wires touch and the starter cranks. you can "bypass" the starter button and key by touching the two big terminals on the solenoid with heavy wire or screwdriver. It will pull quite a few amps and spark- watch what you are doing. another way to check the solenoid is it run a 12 volt small wire from the battery and touch it to the small terminal on the solenoid and see if it "clicks" and the starter cranks. ---in the end you could have a bad key, bad button, or bad solenoid, or bad wires between them. need to check one at a time. also the tractor was 12 volt positive ground when it was new.

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Brian

02-06-2003 20:19:55




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 Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to steve, 02-06-2003 19:50:59  
Thanks for the advice...I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know if I get it running. WHAT A TERRIFIC TRACTOR(Allis D17)WHEN ITS RUNNING...handles a 7 foot snowblower like a dream!!!!!!!!Thanks again!!!



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steve

02-07-2003 15:40:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to Brian, 02-06-2003 20:19:55  
i agree, if you want a 50 HP size tracotr, it is one of the finest ever made. father in law had a 1963 III for years.



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Brian

02-08-2003 12:57:03




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to steve , 02-07-2003 15:40:38  
This is weird, thanks once again but I have one more question for you. I went through the list and jumped across the solenoid and the starter did kick in but wouldn't start. Next I jumped a wire across the coil to the battery and rather than jump the starter I used the key and it cranked up. I moved it inside the shed to work on it out of the wind. Now my question, based on me using the key to start it would that eliminate the switch as the problem. It is my feeling that the problem is the wiring between the switch and the coil...now the weird part...I went out to double check whether I used the key to start it after jumping from the battery to the coil and I found that now it starts and runs with out any jumpers. I know it works now but I still don't know where the potential problem is...I don't want it to happen again in the winter(snow). What do you think...loose connection in the wire between the coil and the switch??? I have never seen a broken switch work again without replacement so I am doubting that is the problem. What do you think?? Thanks again...at least I know how to jump start it in a emergency now.

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Phil Auten (TX)

02-09-2003 10:55:57




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to Brian, 02-08-2003 12:57:03  
This sounds like a broken wire, a bad connection, a bad switch or a bad ignition resistor. The wire that you added from the battery to the coil has bypassed all of this, and possibly the switch. Check each connection, clean it and reinstall it. If the connections do not have "star" type locking washers on them, add them so the connections stay tight. Regular lock washers are not designed for electrical connections, that's the star washer's purpose. If connections aren't the problem, be sure to check each wire as you go, that way if one is broken, you can fix it then. Ignition resistors come in a variety of sizes and shapes, but none of them should look burned or cracked. If you find something in this condition, take it to an auto parts house and they can find a replacement for you. The switch might look ok and still be bad. A common cause of switch failure is a large wad of keys hanging from the switch. Again, a good auto parts store should be able to help by checking the switch. Mark all connections before removing them and be sure to take the key with you so the switch can be operated to test it.

One other thing, be sure to disconnect that wire you added so the battery doesen't get run down and the coil burned up!

Good luck,
Phil

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steve

02-08-2003 21:24:08




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to Brian, 02-08-2003 12:57:03  
i would take off each wire one at a time and sand the rust and crud off the end. replace each and tighten the nuts. that might do it. spade terminals can also get rusty inside. also the switch and button can have corroded contacts inside from 50 years of use. you might not find it for quite some time. think when summer comes i would invest in a few wires, or new ends, and maybe a switch.



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Karl

02-08-2003 18:58:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help-Electrical Problem with my Allis D17 in reply to Brian, 02-08-2003 12:57:03  
Brian : I have a 58 D17. I had similar situation last year. It acted like that intermittently for months. I finally found the connection at the battery terminal on the regulator was loose and dirty. It apparently also holds the wire that leads to the ignition switch. Checking the wires always showed proper voltage at the right places, but apparently not enough amperage could pass the loose connection. I even replaced the ignition switch before finding the problem.

Karl

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