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Re: Engine problems

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10-25-2002 17:32:25

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There is a very involved way to properly fit each bearing. The other posts advising shims are correct. You might want to get a manual to help make it all clear too. What I did was to measure the bearing (crank) put the shells in the rod or main bearing and just tighten finger tight and measure the inside diameter of the bearing, compare to the crank measurement. Also measure clearance between bearing cap and block or con rod. Now. You need to have .001 to .003 clearance. And you need to have (if I remember right) about .002 bearing shell "crush" on each side. Shim to get this after fileing the bearings carefully and evenly. I used a dial indicator on a flat machined surface with the ends of the bearing shell on the surface and indicating the highest point of the round. In this way I could file al little as 1/2 thou to get the porper crush. Don't go for it all at onee, when you get close install it and check with plastigage and keep adjusting down. To check with plastigage you need to torque to spec, remove the cap and look at the plastigage. At this point I only filed the half of the bearing shell in the cap, leaving the other one in the block or rod as I was usually only a bit from the .002 I was shooting for. It is a real balanceing act, took me a long time, sometimes several hours per bearing, I had to make some shims for my mains, was able to use the rod shims as I had enough and they are thin enough. Try to keep the thinkness of the shims the same from side to side, or very close, within .001 or .002.

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