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07-11-2002 18:15:17

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A method I have used is to grind off a little from the end as they are case hardened, drill and tap them for a 3/8 24 thread. Use this thread as it is stronger than a corse thread and you can use socket head cap screws in it which are the equal of grade 8 bolts. Using the socket head cap screws and washers and a socket as a puller pull them out. Drilling and tapping is not a fun job. It is difficult to get the drill started in the center, difficult to drill straight, difficult to tap straight and finally you don't want to break the tap which is difficult to turn in as it is one @#$% of a place to be working. Take the wheel and rim off to make more room to work unless you have it set wide. I would recomend that you set up any new pins in a lathe and drill and tap them before installing. Drill and tap the hole quite deep as you want your pulller bolt to be at least 3/8 in. in past the neck, the neck can and will pull off if the puller isn't in deep enough. The pin is supported by the casting for about 1 1/2 in on the outside so you will not seriously affect the strength by going almost this deep. Take time and try to get as centered and drill and tap straight. Use pleanty of good cutting oil for the tap. Take the tap out if it gets too hard to turn and clean and oil it and the hole again. You don't want to break the tap! Use a new, sharp tap too. The break shoes can rust to the pin at the bottom too. This just adds to the fun. Try to get the shoes moving on the pin from the top access before pullig the pin. Use pleanty of penertrating oil when things start to move too. Grinding off the end of the pin to get below the case hardening will not hurt the pin, the end does nothing especially if you have a threaded hole to pull it with. Install the pins with a wad of grease in the inside hole and grease on the pin and casting at the outside hole. Now you know as much as I have learned in pulling 6 different ones from the WD project I am working on. The main tractor and two partial parts tractors. Good luck, let us know how you make out.

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Gordon in IN

07-11-2002 19:47:17

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 Re: Re: WD BRAKE PINS. in reply to Tom, 07-11-2002 18:15:17  
I agree with everything Tom says, except that I like to use a 3/8 NF stud so that I can get the maximum engagement in the threaded hole with minimum hole and thread depth (less drilling and tapping). I also like to use a very heavy flat washer and a "heavy" nut to do the "pulling". Tom sure is correct in suggesting grease in the inside hole and greasing the pin. It is real embarrising to have to do the same job "again" if the pin rusts in tight in a few years. Good luck, Gordon

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07-13-2002 12:39:04

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 Re: Re: Re: WD BRAKE PINS. in reply to Gordon in IN , 07-11-2002 19:47:17  
And I agree with you Gordon, a stud would be better, you still want to get in past the neck though, and a heavy nut would be bette too. These items are harder to come by than even a socket head cap screw or grade 8 cap screw though for the average person. You are correct though!

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Tom Seel

07-15-2002 18:45:13

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: WD BRAKE PINS. in reply to Tom, 07-13-2002 12:39:04  
Thanks guys, looks like it is going to be a bear no matter what. The only good part is the brake shoes are not stuck to the pin as I have already checked that and everything is loose and working good. There just isn't any linnings left. Sounds like I need to make a trip to the hardware store. Thanks alot you have been a big help. Oh yeah, the rest of the tractor is great. The engine has been rebuilt and just Purrr's. I painted it a couple weeks ago and all that is left is the brakes, and a three point, as this is a working tractor( or will be). Thanks again!

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